Travel across the Central Asia Silk route of Almaty,Tashkent and Samarkand from Mumbai.

In school had studied about the "SILK TRADE ROUTE" from China to Europe and hence after a travel of 78 country's under my belt decided it was time to travel across the most prominent city's of  Central Asia situated along the former historic "Silk Trade Route". During my employment as a "Marine Engineer" seafarer had helped in the trade of  commodities and petroleum products by manning  ships along the International and coastal sea routes of India and the World.We sailors irrespective of rank, nationality or sex are the original traders whose professional  "Sailor Ancestors"  discovered new corners of the Globe through trade and piracy since the beginning of civilization.Piracy has been almost eradicated in modern shipping and now it's just shipping trade employment , extreme solo sailing adventures and sailing sports that beckon's sailors to the sea  since the sailing day's of pioneer sailors Christopher.Columbus, Amerigo .Vespucci and Vasco da Gama to name  few of the most prominent seafarer explorers.

On the  "12903 /Golden Temple Mail Express"

On Wednesday(29/5/2019) booked my online return air ticket on "Air Astana" from Delhi to Almaty to Tashkent and back to Delhi through  the travel site "Makemytrip.com" with  the total  cost amounting  to Rs 30,929.For tourist promotion "Air Astana" of Kazakhstan were offering a "FREE TRANSIT VISA" of a maximum stay of 72 hrs in Almaty or  the Capital Nur Sultan(Astana) in Kazakhstan to travelers  flying on their airlines with a ongoing connecting flight to another country.This was the reason i booked my flight with "Air Astana" and in hindsight was glad for the same.On Sunday(2/6/2019) booked a train ticket to Delhi on the "12903/Golden Temple Mail"costing Rs 1650.Later on Tuesday(30/7/2019) booked the train ticket from Delhi to Mumbai on  the "12952/Mumbai Rajdhani " costing Rs 2200. Next applied for the E-Visa to Uzbekistan through "Farshak Travels" in Prabhadevi  and received the same within 3 day's with the fee's amounting to Rs 2,821 which included the travel agency fee's.

Start of the "SILK ROUTE" travel beginning by train travel from Mumbai.Travelling on the "12903 /Golden Temple Mail Express" is akin to a train picnic in air-conditioned comfort.Here i am tasting a long large  "Hot Green Chilli Pepper (Pakoda or Bhajia)" that tasted something different. Try it the next time you travel on long distance  trains in India .Travel is also about experiencing the journey and not only about the end destination.

Sunday(1/9/2019) Departure Mumbai:- It was a very wet rainy day and in the evening the rain subsided and with great difficulty through heavy vehicular traffic  managed to reach Bombay Central station  to board the "12903 /Golden Temple Mail Express" scheduled for departure at 2125 hrs.Boarded "B3 compartment Seat 25" and departure was punctual at 2125 hrs with the train's A/c extremely effective and at night felt i was in a European winter  requiring sweater to ward off the chill A/c temperature.I won't be surprised if in a few years some entrepreneur thinks of constructing a artificial ice skating rink in Mumbai.

At the "Hazrat Nizamuddin Metro Station" in Delhi on my way to Paharganj locality situated  in the backpacker Adda(Hindi slang ) of New Delhi .This station was recently inaugurated on 31 December 2018 and is on the "Pink Line" of World class showpiece the "Delhi Metro Network ".

A must see locale :-One nights stay in Paharganj of Delhi.

Monday(2/9/2019) Arrival Delhi :- A very comfortable journey and was surprised at the cleanliness of this B3 A/C compartment as previously i had traveled by "Second Class Sleeper" on this same train from Bombay Central to Amritsar, one of my marathon train travels.Yes the "Solo Traveller" had upgraded by default ! My Co-passengers were young travelers and as usual got into a conversation and was surprised to know that co-passenger Mr Bharat.Satpute was a professional tour travel entrepreneur from Mumbai on his way to Amritsar for conducting a group tour from Mumbai. It's a small World and we discussed travel.At 1845 hrs our train reached Nizamuddin station and on alighting inquired about the Nizamuddin Metro which was a short walk along a narrow crowded street from the main station terminus.

My personal"Silk Route" began from Paharganj in Delhi.

                                                                                                               I had done my "Travel Homework" as usual and after purchasing a Rs 40 train ticket token to New Delhi boarded the Metro train heading to Majlis Park.The train was crowded but comfortable and after a long time gap of stations alighted at "INA Station".From "I.N.A" station followed the "yellow Line" which led me on a long underground jig-saw network reminding me of European Metro's to finally arrive on platform No 2 to board the train to "Samaypur Badli". The train was packed to capacity akin to Mumbai trains in peak office hours as due to technical defects the trains on this line were running behind schedule  and hence overcrowded.

Classic vegetarian dinner in Paharganj of Delhi.

                                                                           With great difficulty squeezed into the compartment and made it to New Delhi Metro station and out into familiar locale .Boarded a shared auto-rickshaw costing Rs 10/person and alighted at Delhi's most infamous backpacker's locality of Paharganj. Checked into "Nav Durga Guesthouse" and was allotted Room No 13 on the second floor at a rental of Rs 400/day.Excellent room for the price in the heart of Delhi. After a quick shower in the common bathroom had  dinner of classic Rice Pulao/Sweet Lassi at "Maa Bhagwati" vegetarian restaurant situated next to "Nav Durga" guesthouse.After dinner was back to my tiny room and did try to get my three hours of sleep.

On the "Air Astana KC-908" flight from  Delhi to Almaty. Was surprised at the number of Indian students doing Medical Studies in Kazakhstan and other countries in Central Asia . Seated next to me is Medical student Mr Yogesh.Yadav and almost a quarter of this plane was filled with Medical students returning back to their colleges in Central Asia after holiday's in India.

At Delhi Airport awaiting the flight to Almaty.

Tuesday(3/9/2019 ) Departure Delhi and arrival Almaty :- Delhi was hot in comparison to Mumbai and had a sleepless night in my guest house room .At 0500 hrs got dressed and boarded a auto-rickshaw to "Delhi International train terminal".Excellent First World station and after purchasing a ticket costing Rs 60 boarded the train and after 40 minutes was at I.G.I Airport terminal-3. Was very early and as usual just sat in the waiting lounge until "Astana Air"  Counter opened at 0800 hrs.Got my boarding ticket and after the irritating but necessary security check made my way into the plush duty free lounge.Check-in was at 1040 hrs and departure take-off at 1200 hrs.The plane was packed with young medical students and a few  workers making me feel i was on a internal local flight.
 

Arrival "Almaty  Airport". 

                                                                         My co-travelers seated next to me were medical students and picked up a engrossing conversation with Mr Yogesh.Yadav from Haryana getting to know that Kazakhstan topped the list in providing medical education to Indians at a cheaper cost of approximately 5-6 lakhs/year.Watched the Elton.John biopic "Rocketman" while conversing with young medical student Yogesh. Lunch was excellent Kazakh menu  with beer and a memorable air trip came to a end when the plane touched down at Kazakh airport at 1545 hrs local time with the looming snow capped mountains visible from the airport.I had laid foot in the Asian part of  largest landlocked European country in the World . This  was the 79th Country i was visiting  on Planet Earth.Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan located on the foothills of  the Trans Illi Alatau  mountain range at a elevation of 700-900 Meters( 2,300-3000 ft) and was the Capital from 1927 to 1997 under Soviet  Union and its appointees.The Capital was shifted to Astana which recently  on 20 March 2019  was renamed Nur-Sultan in honour of long ruling Kazakh President Nursultan.Nazarbayev.

On the " N0 92" bus from Airport to Abay-Sefullin.

                                                   After the normal immigration check made my way out of the airport after changing some currency into local Kazakh Tenge @ 1 U.S $ = 388 Tenge. A taxi driver tried to take me for a ride by seducing me to get into his taxi at a rate of 2 U.S $'s  which meant the meter charges/Km  and not the total journey.Luck favoured me and a N0 92 bus was parked just in front of the airport. Boarded the bus and purchased the ticket to Abay-Seyfullin  bus stop.It was a long one hour journey and the weather and roads reminded me of India except that the roads were in excellent condition and the weather cool akin to a hill station in India.

Inside "Bus N0 92":- Airport to Abay-Seyfullin

                                                    Medical students and workers  from India would definitely feel at home in Almaty during summer and autumn although the winters are severe akin to North Indian Himalayas or  Canada. Almaty is  famous as a winter sports destination also bidding for  the Winter Olympics of  2022 but losing the bid to Bejing.I can't withstand ice and the cold and winter ice games is not my cup of tea and hence  was in Almaty during  the best autumn  season of the city.The lady passenger  seated next to me assisted me through her "Internet Google" in alighting at the right stop.After a long journey of 45 minutes at times  through peak traffic finally reached Abay- Seyfullin. From the bus stop it was another jigsaw puzzle locating "ART HOSTEL" and again providence came to my rescue when a young local Mr Ibrahim.Bolat literally walked me to the plush building complex through his guided "G.P.S Internet .

ART HOSTEL:- Ground floor next to Kids Karate School.

                                                                                                                                   "Art Hostel" was situated on the ground floor of a modern skyscraper building society next to a kid's karate training school .A "First World hostel" with state of the art security system akin to some of the hostels i visited in Europe.A local helped me in getting the main door opened by alerting one of the guests inside as the door open mechanism  was coded , common in "First World Hostels" which do not use conventional locks and keys or alarm bells.Travel educates .A Australian guest opened the door  and was not surprised to find myself in a plush large private flat converted into a hostel dormitory, typical of any "First World hostel".

Kitchen of "Art Hostel" akin to living in a palatial  flat.

 Was later allotted my bunk bed No 3 in a 8 double bunk bed spacious room  and as usual the once veteran seafarer quickly adjusted to climate, topography and residential changes.In the evening strolled around the main street where sign boards of most shop's was in Russian language and later purchased some cold food for dinner from the small grocery shop on the road near the hostel building.After a "Salami-Roll" dinner got to my bunk and after three nights got my normal four hours sleep.

On Kok-Tobe Mountain (Blue Hill) at a altitude of  1,100 Meters( 3600 Ft).A visitor gets to view the recreation park on top of this mountain and also get a bird's eye view of Almaty city and the mountains.One of the most popular tourist attractions in Almaty. A "Cable-Car" connects Kok-Tobe with Downtown Almaty.Use the "Cable Car" to visit  Kok-Tobe for a excellent "Bird's Eye View" ride to the Mountain amusement park.The Sunkar  International ski-jumping slides are clearly visible from Kok-Tobe mountain.Almaty is a major "WINTER SPORTS" destination .

Eternal flame Memorial for 28 guardsmen in Panfilov .

                                                    Wednesday(4/9/2019)  Almaty :- Woke up early and after my normal toilet routines and a cold shower in the 5-star style bathroom got back on the internet and also inquired about the sightseeing  topography of Almaty. Was given a small tourist guide map of the city and after a breakfast of "Lamb Bacon" with bread headed into the street for exploring Almaty City.As mentioned "Art Hostel" is situated in a plush housing colony with 24 hrs guarded sentry and car park.After exit from the colony inquired with a young local about the bus to "Panfilov Memorial Park" and was told to board bus No 25 from Abay -Sefullin street situated next to the landmark "Zhekas Plov and Donor house" restaurant .

Panfilov Park:-  Monuments in the park.

                                   Boarded the crowded bus akin to a local but that was the end of my ingenuity of being a chameleon as English language was non-existent among almost all the commuters.

Inside "ASCENSION (ZENKOV) CATHEDRAL.

                                                                                                Thanks to a local commuter Mr Constantine who did speak English that i  managed to purchase a ticket and next was finally  guided by a lady commuter through a "Message translator" to the right stop for alighting. It was a complicated journey through various road  turns akin to a jig-saw puzzle drive and at worst i would have had to travel to the last stop and back by the same bus to my hostel bus stop. This is one safe insurance policy if lost on a bus in a city and my guidance to other "Solo Adventurer's".It was a short walk from the bus-stop to Panfilov Park, a large wooded garden .

A Labrador & pram outside Zenkov Cathedral Entrance.

                               

Took some photographs at the War memorial where the eternal flame burns in front of the statues in  memory of the Panfilov Martyr's who perished during World War-2 .The Panfilov heroes were 28 soldiers of a Almaty Infantry who died fighting the Germans outside of Moscow during the Great Patriotic War(World War-II).The group took its name from Ivan.Panfilov of the 316th division who stalled and delayed the German advance into Moscow attaining Martyrdom in the battle.

Outside " Arasan Baths" on plush Tolebaev street.

                                                                                                             From Panfilov park next visited Ascension Cathedral(Zenkov Cathedral) situated just behind the Panfilov Martyr's statue and one of the most visited tourist sites in Almaty.Ascension (Zenkov) Cathedral was constructed between 1904 -1907 by architect Pavlovich.Zenkov and consecrated into the Russian Orthodox church in 1907. When i entered the Cathedral a Russian Orthodox church mass was in progress and for the first time in my life attended a Russian Orthodox church ceremony bringing back memories of one of my dark heroes the "Mad Monk" Grigory.Rasputin.                                          How could one Monk be the cause for the upheaval of one of the largest empires of its era that later changed World history ? Did a small video film shoot and later photographs. The uniqueness of this cathedral that is 56 meters(184 ft) tall is that it is built entirely of wood without using nails ,the only such church in the World .     

Green Market or Zelionyj Bazaar.

                                                                                     From the Cathedral just walked around the sprawling Panfilov park later  taking a few photographs of the pigeons that flock in the courtyard facing the cathedral as they are regularly fed by tourists.Next inquired for directions to Arasan Bath complex considered the finest bath house in central Asia  situated on Tolebaev Street (Karl Marx Street) across the  road facing Panfilov Park.This locale was one of the plushest streets during the Soviet Era and most houses on Tolebaev street formerly known as Karl Marx street carry the plaques of famous writers,composers and politicians who lived in this locale.Entered "Arasan Bath" which was equivalent to a plush 5-star spa with equivalent entrance charges .Not a fascination for me having visited the natural spring Szechenyi  baths in Budapest in Hungary, the largest medicinal bath in Europe.

View of Almaty from "Cable Car" ride to Kok-Tobe.

                                                                                                     Arasan Baths external  architecture was a identical copy of the Szechenyi Baths of Budapest. From Arason Baths decided to visit the "Green Market" also known as the Zelionyj Bazaar , the main bazaar of Almaty. It was a long walk from Arasan Baths across Panfilov park and then crossing over a road before finally reaching the vicinity of "Green Market". It is a large 2- level market with  footpath  hawkers selling their wares ranging from food products to dry fruits, garments and hardware.Tasted "Kazakh Coffee" from a roadside vendor selling corn cobs  along with coffee, a popular street side snack in Almaty. After the Coffee  strolled round the bazaar which was typical of any Asian bazaar and something unique to westerners unaccustomed to Asian Bazaar's.

World's tallest steel tubular T.V Tower.

                                                                                                 Here i got a true flavour of  Central Asia and the "Silk Road" trade . Almaty is definitely a First World city in all aspects and during my stroll around the Green  Bazaar felt i was in  Turkey, famous for its bazaars. From Green Bazaar  my next destination was "Palace of the Republic" and providence came to my rescue in the form of a young medical student from Turkmenistan Mr Mohammed.Odinaev who walked the talk with me to destination "Palace of the Republic". It was a long 2 Kms walk with  Mohammed. Odinaev  seeking the help of "Internet Google" for directions as he himself was not very familiar with the city since his medical college was in another city of Kazakhstan. First i met Indian Medical students on the flight to Almaty  and now a  Turkmenistan medical student was my guide in Almaty making me wonder if i was hallucinating like "Alice in Wonderland" ? Felt like a over-age medical student myself ! Finally reached our destination and to my surprise a classical musical concert orchestra was practicing on the "Palace of the Republic " main square  for a scheduled evening concert.The "Palace of the Republic" is a concert hall building formerly known as the "Lenin Palace of Culture" and  faces a square that has fountains and a large statue of Kazakh poet Abai.

Granite "Fountain of Desires" Apple  symbolizing Almaty.

                                                                             Made my way towards Kok-Tobe building where we came across a "Cycle Delivery Boy" named Pasha on his Trek cycle. Having seen the 2012  Hollywood movie "Premium Rush" and a regular Mumbai cyclist commuter  myself  was in awe of  actually meeting the real McCoy, a authentic cycle "DELIVERY BOY" .Pasha from Russia was slim like  most of the Tour de France cyclists seen on T.V  and most important he rode a expensive "Fixed Wheel Bike" which akin to a motorcycle is unforgiving if in the hands of a novice . The traffic in Kazakhstan is congested but thankfully cyclists have a special lane all over the city and unlike New York this young 23 year old delivery boy would not have to zick-zack on his Trek across the Kazakhstan roads as shown in that movie based on a New York delivery boy's average day's work .

On the Bronze statue"BEATLES BENCH" on Kok -Tobe

                                                                                                     It's definitely a young man's profession as speed and skill are involved in delivering urgent items faster that a motorized vehicle during peak traffic hours ! Thanked Mr  Mohammed .Odinaev for being my voluntary guide and made my way into the plush Kok-Tobe building to board the "Cable Car" to Kok-Tobe amusement  park.

Charges for a return ticket was 2000 Tenge and after purchasing the ticket boarded the cable car for the uphill journey to Kok-Tobe amusement Park. Got a beautiful "Bird's Eye view" of Almaty from the cable car and the weather was indescribable as also the scenery of the surrounding mountains. Kok-Tobe park has been developed as a mountain tourist resort and the park has stalls and entertainment akin to a carnival.
   

Kalashnikov Rifle target shooting amusement stall.

                                                   Rifle-shooting with authentic Kalashnikov guns modified for target practice were some of the popular stalls .There were not much tourists as i was early and hence had a luxurious crowd free walk across the vast Kok-Tobe amusement  park complex. Visited a "Cat Cafe" for the first time in my life which also had a small pet zoo housing miniature Amazon monkey's.The tallest steel tubular  T.V tower in the world is the most imposing structure located  on the slopes of Kok Tobe mountain. Walked along the length of the  park visiting the small zoo that housed local birds and animals . Almaty is famous for having a bronze statue of the "Beatles" in Kok-Tobe that was installed in 2007 and which is the first statue in the World of all the members of the band in full length.

Glimpse of Amusement park . T.V Tower on the slopes.

                               Took my photograph along with the Beatles statue as rarely is a statue in any Country erected in memory of a "Rock & Roll" band .Later strolling casually along the park  came across the sight of my life spotting a "Golden Eagle" being exhibited for tourist photography.Having seen up-teen films on "National Geographic" of Kazakh horsemen with hunting eagles decided to pose a la "Shah Rukh Khan style" for a photo-shoot with this eagle as also wanting to personally  feel its weight and grip on my hand. I am a authentic practical man and realize  at least 70% of my fantasies and ambitions, win or lose, but always wiser or sadder for the same.A GAMBLER , Ahoy !                                             

"GOLDEN EAGLE", the flying predator.

                                               The Kazakh handlers of this monster of a eagle put on the leather glove onto my hand and donned me in Kazakh tribe hunting gear .Honestly the weight of the eagle was akin to doing one arm  heavy body building dumb-bell exercises and its talons grip made me shudder to think what this bird was capable  as a predator.It can stalk and kill a full grown wolf let alone a lamb. Have seen this bird lift a small lamb and now feeling its weight on  my right arm as well as the grip of its talons made me realize that "National Geographic" doesn't have any doubters about its filming .The photo-shoot cost me 1500 Tenge with the Natural World holding less wildlife mysteries as i age with experience. Feel sorry as most species, both predators as well as prey are facing extinction due to human over-population and callous wild-life destruction through forest eradication and poaching. Agreed that hunting was and still is a way of life and living for some human cultures across the Globe but this hunting is not the reasons for entire species being hunted into extinction.After the once in a life "Golden Eagle " bird photo shoot made my way towards the exit and boarded the cable-car back to Kok-Tobe  base.

"Lemon Pheasant" at the small zoo on Kok-Tobe .

                                                                                                     Made my way to the 5-star  " Hotel Kazakhstan " situated next to the "Palace of Republic  Square" and one of the oldest hotels in Almaty built in 1977  during the Soviet era.As usual entered the hotel and was surprised of the cheapest room  tariff being only U.S $ 67 U.S . The interiors were simple preserving the Communist era style of mass common decor .From Kazakhstan Hotel walked back to "Palace of the Republic" square where the orchestra practice for the evening was in full progress and although not a classical music fan just sat in a corner watching the large entourage of musicians perform.Never in my life did i see this  many musicians and musical instruments gathered in one place .The last time i saw such an ensemble was at a 1989 Zubin Mehta classical English music concert in Mumbai  which was indecipherable to me being a Rock & Pop fan . This classical concert was in Kazakh language and the conductor was a young man briskly waving his wand.From "Palace of the Republic " had a long walk to "Abai Metro"  and with directions from locals purchased a 60 Tenge train ticket and made my way down one of the longest underground train station elevators reminding me of the European Metro elevators.

Monument of Kazakh poet Abai at Palace of the Republic 

                                                                                   Instant memories of Europe and honestly Kazakhstan doesn't resemble the typical Asian city but is a mirror image of a typical European First World city. Russia the colonizers of Kazakhstan have left behind a excellent architectural legacy of city planning. Boarded the train which was partially crowded and got down at the next stop Baikonur subway station named after the the Baikonur Cosmodrome located in Southern Khazakhstan and now leased to Russia.From Baikonur station it was a short walk towards "Art Hostel" and on the way at 1600 hrs had a late lunch  of "Plov" costing 850 Tenge at "Zhekas Plov and Donor house" situated next to the main bus stand and my landmark.After lunch purchased grocery of bread , yogurt and apples at the small grocery store situated on the by-lane road outside "Art Hostel" building. Entered the plush skyscraper building complex  and finally called it the end of a day's travel across Almaty. 

Concert rehearsal on "Palace of Republic" Square . 

                                                                             As mentioned "Art Hostel" is situated in a flat in a large private modern housing complex and the atmosphere is akin to living in a large extended family although language is Russian and Russian T.V more popular than local Kazakh T.V. As a  Solo traveller adjustments to environment, situations and circumstances is the key to survival as well as pleasure.You could either be alone with a lot of friends  or be busy all alone by yourself and new found acquaintances.Solo travel is not everyone's cup of tea but definitely the last frontier of extreme adventure in a World where everything is available at the click of a mouse or a smartphone.

At "BIG ALMATY LAKE" ,a natural Alpine reservoir located in the Trans- lli Alatau mountains ,a part of the Northern Tian Shan mountain range at a altitude of 2511 meters(8238 Ft) .The lake is 1.5 Km in length with a coastline of 3 Km and a depth of 30-40 Km. The lakes average water temp is 8-10*C  and swimming prohibited otherwise i would have done a "RUSKIE DIP" in this lake..A indescribable beautiful locale with cool but not chill weather as can be observed through my clothing. Thanks to a chance meeting with  local  Co- traveller Mr Yeulan.Risbekov that we shared a taxi and reached this beautiful locale in Almaty.In fact it was Yeulan who suggested this particular rock for a photo-shoot that gives a beautiful view of the entire landscape.The water was absolutely still without any ripples akin to a carpet.The snow capped mountains can be seen in the distance that provide perennial glacial water to this lake which in turn is used for supplying drinking water to the region.Depending on the time of the year this lake changes colour and in the autumn of September it looks light green.

Local  Yeulan.Resbekov & Self at "Big Almaty Lake".

Thursday(5/9/2019) Almaty :- A sleepless night for no reason and in the morning after normal routines and breakfast got dressed and headed into the city.After much inquiry about the direction of the bus boarded bus No 34 to Presidential Park. It was a very long ride and realized that travel distances in Almaty are spread-out and today i was travelling in  the opposite tangential direction  of Kok-Tobe. Finally reached Presidential Park through the driver's assistance and on alighting inquired about Bus No 28 to Almaty Lake.One local woman almost ruined my day by misguiding me in the wrong direction little realizing that visits to 79 Country's are below my belt.

View of "BIG ALMATY LAKE" from Highway road.

           Common sense prevailed and i didn't heed the woman's advice and waited for bus No 28 at the same stop.The bus finally arrived and to my relief i had boarded the right bus.Moral of this incidence is that always cross-check your answers or questions regarding local travel information with more that one stranger if travelling "SOLO" in any city or Country. Some people enjoy the thrill of fooling tourists or strangers.This has happened to me on numerous occasions in different country's but travel experience always came to my rescue.It was a long journey from the  South end of Almaty city ascending the mountain highway towards destination Almaty lake.

Scenic Alpine Vegetation along the Mountain Highway.

A lunch of Traut caught on the hook at this Alpine resort.

              Finally after passing the toll booth of Almaty city the bus terminated the journey at the last stop which was almost 10 Kms away from Almaty lake. I was deciding to hike a lift or walk the distance when a young man along with a taxi driver asked me to join him and share the taxi cost to which i happily agreed.Young 23 year old Mr Yeulan.Risbekov and myself booked the taxi at 2000 Tenge/person and headed towards destination  Big Almaty Lake.It was a curved upward ascending mountain drive, a bikers fantasy in the cool pleasant  Tien Shan (Trans - lli Alatau )mountain range.

 Yeulan and self  having unique Kazakh style fish lunch.

  The scenery was awesome with pine tree vegetation and a few snow clad mountains looming over us in the distance.Got to know my partner in sightseeing and was surprised to find Yeulan  conversant in English as he  worked at a local hotel in the reception department .He flattered my ego by mistaking my age to be in the 40's and not once did i feel  was in the company of a man with a huge generation gap. Mick Jagger are you reading ? Finally reached Almaty lake situated in a crater below the mountain road and which bizarrely resembled Pangong lake in Ladakh in India. Please forgive me for comparisons as i name drop country's and places visited.

 Resort where i first ate a freshly caught hooked fish.

             Almaty lake  seemed small from the mountain highway road having a coastline circumference of only 3 Kms but a depth of 30-40 meters. The lake water  was still and silent akin to a carpet laid on a solid floor.Swimming is not allowed otherwise would have had a "Russkie DiP " in the chill 8*-10* C water. Russians have a tradition of jumping into Ice-cold water in peak winter season . Not a ripple of water let alone small waves. The lake had mountains looming above and  one of the tallest mountains  had a large amount of glacier ice.Descent to the lake is steep and dangerous and we just carefully trekked down mid-way to the lake and took some awesome daredevil photo's from a boulder as seen in the photograph. After the  photography session we headed back  to the waiting taxi  and headed towards the 28 N0 bus stop.

Individual floating style log cabins across a flowing stream

                                                                                                                 On the way  the driver insisted that we stop at a local Kazakh picnic gathering as his friends wanted a photograph with me .Mr Shah Rukh Khan are you embarrassed ? I was definitely embarrassed when we stopped at a scenic locale along the mountainside where a large family of local men and women were enjoying a party of food and conversation. On introducing me they were happy and offered me some tasty local Kazakh snacks before taking a group photograph along with me.Thanking them we drove away and stopped at a picturesque site on the mountain for photography.

Almaty City Toll booth near "Sunkar Falcon Farm".

                                        .Finally reached our destination and thanking the driver Yeulan and myself decided to walk the distance to the "Falcon Farm" situated next to the Almaty highway toll booth. It was a long walk and on the way got to know Yeulan better as a top class athlete and boxer besides being a dare-devil skate boarding enthusiast.Was also surprised to know that horse meat is a common consumption in Kazakhstan and considered to have aphrodisiac properties and hence boxers are not allowed to eat horse meat before a fight.Travel educates. Thought only tiger products were considered aphrodisiac and hence horse meat as a stimulation food was big news to me.

Entrance to Sunkar, Raptor, Falcon, eagles sanctuary.

                                                                We entered a shop for snacks and he purchased a "Skate Board" after which i walked while he boasted his prowess on the skate board and at times taking severe falls as the road was uneven .Thankfully age was on his side and his heavy falls didn't result in any body damage akin to a footballer falling on the ground. Yeulan knew the locale  and there are numerous resorts along the mountain highway leading to Almaty lake. Further down we came across a classic resort where fish caught on the hook in the restaurant stream  pond was served to the customer.For the first time i had visited a resort where open air rigidly fixed  cabins akin to boat-houses were built across a natural flowing stream . We tried our hand in hooking a fish but failed while the  manager instantly hooked two let alone one fish  proving that fishing is a art and not luck or fluke.The fish was roasted and served to us on the stream cabin and it was a different experience sitting in a restaurant with the sight and sound of flowing water all round you.

Dog Kennel on Sunkar Falcon Farm,

                                                                                                              This was a typical Kazakh restaurant and the custom is to sit on the floor and eat food which i couldn't but somehow managed.After the memorable fish lunch we walked down the mountain road finally reaching the Almaty Toll booth where we both parted way's, total strangers of different generations becoming acquaintances due to circumstances.The "Falcon Show" was scheduled for 1700 hrs and at 1500 hrs i was the only tourist at this amazing falcon farm.Walked around the sprawling estate which also had a plush hotel resort in its midst complete with a swimming pool.The cold had set in and hence the swimming pool closed as it was off-season. The owl's and falcon's were in their enclosures akin to a zoo. The Farm complex also had a large dog kennel and a small stable of horses. One of the dog's seen in the photograph was the largest i have seen in ages and was furious of my presence waking up the entire resort farm with its loud barking while attacking the barbed cage to pounce on me.

"Wild Boar Trophy" at "Sunkar Falcon Farm" resort.

                           I have attended numerous dog show's in India having owned a Spitz and a dachshund and now cat's as pets.Have also done voluntary charity  dog walking  at the "Bombay Veterinary hospital" handling sick dogs of which some were road stray dogs which are unpredictable by temperament.Recently in June 2019 had visited the "Probably Paradise Shelter" at Karjat near Mumbai where a elderly lady animal welfare  philanthropist  Ms Roxanne.Davur runs a shelter for abandoned dog's, cat's as well as other domestic livestock. The numerous stray dog's at that shelter greeted me with loud barks but not a single dog was aggressive towards me.

Start of "Falcon Show" by trainer Mr Paul.Pfander.

                  Never once did i feel threatened by a dog but this probable "Caucasian  Shepherd hunting dog" breed gave me the shivers of my life as well as embarrassment of being afraid of a dog.Honestly, face to face  i would be less afraid of a tiger,leopard or lion than of this dog if set free on me from its cage.Have read of humans being mauled to death by a dog and i would bet my house on the fact that this dog could easily kill me at this particular moment if let loose from the cage.Truth is stranger than fiction.A family group of tourists from Gujarat arrived and through conversation got to know that they were on a 16 day tour visit of 5 country's in central Asia .In case tourists want to stay overnight at the "Falcon Farm" then there is accommodation available but a reserve booking is essential as it's a secluded locale far from the city .

Grand finale : "Bearded Vulture" swallowing "Deer Hoof".

                                                                                                                       

The Falcon show entrance fee was 2500 Tenge and the show started punctually at 1700 hrs.The Handler/Trainer Mr Paul.Pfander  was amusing and excellent also surprising us with a few words of Hindi realizing that most of the spectators were Indian tourists.I thought i knew a lot about raptors through reading but in Almaty realized i was theoretically a genius while practically a duffer regarding knowledge of  these amazing  birds of prey .The show lasted just half an hour but  those few minutes banished all my ignorance on "Bird's of Prey".He first introduced a tiny owl, next a larger owl and later the Saker falcons a native species of Kazakhstan.

A unique  popular mode of Electric transport in Almaty.

                                       He next rode on horseback and introduced the Golden eagle demonstrating the bird's skill in hunting down animals as large as wolves. Unbelievable but true.In Kok -Tobe park holding the Golden Eagle akin to Shah Rukh Khan in a movie made me understand the weight and power of this particular breed of raptor and during the Falcon show got to see a few different species of raptor's demonstrate their hunting prowess. Mr Paul.Pfander  made the show educationally entertaining akin to a good teacher or professor and his finale of showing us a Bearded  vulture  swallow a complete hoof of a deer was the climax of a grand circus of birds of prey.The show got over at 1730 hrs and my next worry was reaching "Art Hostel" and thankfully almost immediately got a N0 28 bus to the city.

"BAIKONUR METRO STATION" :- Space age showcase

                                                                                                  A long journey and through inquiry alighted at the right stop and boarded the connecting 34 No bus to Abaya .Bizarrely its mostly women who have come to my rescue in finding my bearings around Almaty while travelling in public transport and again thanks to two women that  i alighted at the right spot in Abhaya. Purchased some eatable grocery at the store outside the building complex and made myself comfortable on the Internet . Internet speed is amazing in Almaty definitely much faster than my normal "Reliance Gio" in India.Experienced the first rainfall since my arrival in Almaty with mild showers pouring from the skies after 2000 hrs when i was in the confines of my cozy "Art Hostel" accommodation. It drizzled throughout the night.

On the "SILK ROUTE TRAIL" at Almaty airport awaiting to board the "Air Astana KC-127" flight to Tashkent. I had got a free 72 hrs "TRANSIT VISA" of Kazakhstan  which was  a travel incentive by the Country's airline valid for all transit passengers for the years  2018-2019.Hence i decided to do this particular discoverer travel route as  this was the last year of the "FREE 72 HRS TRANSIT VISA" for passengers travelling by Kazakhstan "Air Astana" airlines.A excellent 72 hrs of discovery and sightseeing in Almaty comes to end.

                   

 Coffee at "Zhekas Plov" prior departure Tashkent

Friday(6/9/2019) Departure Almaty in Kazakhstan  and arrival  Tashkent in Uzbekistan :-  After my usual 3-4 hrs sleep  was awake and whiling my time on the smartphone updating my video's and other backlog blogging. At 0500 hrs had my toilet routines and self prepared  breakfast and finally at 0700 hrs checked out from my home for 3 nights , the chic "Art Hostel".It had rained throughout the night and the road was wet but thankfully my holiday's were not spoiled due to the rain.Like it or not "LADY LUCK" does play a major role in anyone's life ranging from Billionaires to the homeless seeking a break in their lives.Walked to the 92 Nos bus stop and had a refreshing Cappuccino coffee from the "Zhekas Plov and Donor house"restaurant situated next to  the bus stop.

At Classic "Art Hostel" in Tashkent. 5-Star Amenities.

                                     Boarded the crowded bus and noticed that the traffic congestion as well as commuter congestion was similar to my home city of Mumbai .It was a long almost one hour travel journey to the airport.Almaty Airport is tiny in comparison to most airports i have traveled through and hence although having a language handicap did find my way into the departure lobby.Checked the flight schedule and heaved a sigh of relief that all was fine and normal. At 0900 hrs made my entry into the check-in counter and as i was allotted a "72 hrs Transit Visa"  had to undergo certain red-tapism procedures.Finally passed through immigration and later security  check to finally enter the tiny main duty free lobby of Almaty airport.Boarding time was 1140 hrs and i was the back bench passenger on seat No 45 H, the last seat in the plush plane.

First meal in Tashkent at "Master Food" restaurant.

                                                                                                                 Take-Off was punctual at 1220 hrs and after being served a cold drink and a snack by the stewardess's the plane finally touched  down at Tashkent airport,my 80th country with the total flight time being just 1 hr 20 mins. Always associated Tashkent city as the place where India's second Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri met a untimely death on 11th January 1966 after the signing of the "Tashkent Agreement "that formerly ended the "1965 India-Pakistan war" .After the formality of immigration and Visa exchanged a few dollars into the local currency @ 1U.S $ = 9,381 Sums (UZS). .Inquired regarding public transport to "Art Hostel" finally deciding to take a taxi and stop behaving miserly in saving a few rupees while losing lakhs of rupees  in "Stock Market Apocalypse -2019". 

Plush  neighborhood of "ART HOSTEL" in Tashkent.

                                                                                                                               At a nominal rate of U.S $ 5 hired a taxi and reached my destination "Art Hostel" at 3 Zanzhirbog Street,Tashkent-100031. Unlike its namesake in Almaty this "Art Hostel" in Tashkent was situated on it's own sprawling bungalow property complex  having a mini swimming pool and was the first hostel established in Tashkent. Competitors  followed as is any business and today there are many hostels in Almaty city.Ms Olga, the Russian Lady receptionist checked me into room N0 8(Mix-Dormitory) on the first floor which had 7 single bed's in a row akin to a boarding school and not space saving double bunk beds as is common in almost all hostels  including "Art Hostel" in Almaty.Made myself at home as usual and later walked into the huge dining hall cum living room of this sprawling hostel complex .Picked up a conversation with a young German lady Ms Lilly.Lingg living in our dormitory  whose travel routine would make professional travellers seem like group tourists on a package tour.

"Art Hostel" cat in  kitchen .Cat "Matahari's" Replica ?

                                                                                                   She had been travelling since the last 2 1/2 years having visited and lived in India for 6 months and was now planning to visit Pakistan and later India.She traveled all alone like me with  her only advantage being  that having a "GERMAN PASSPORT( FIRST WORLD) " acquiring Visa's on arrival was normal for her unlike me and other hard core travelers from the developing World.She gave me a good brief idea of the city as well as it's food locales. Thanking her went back to my room and was surprised to see a Asian sleeping on the bed next to mine.Mr Danish.Saleem was from Karachi and a student on his way to college in Latvia.

Tashkent School of Choreography & National Dance

                                           We both began conversing and surprised that while we both behaved and spoke normally our Country's were in the worst political crisis .During my travels across the Globe have come across Pakistan origin local citizens or travelers and never ever faced any animosity as could be the case of Indians and Pakistani's employed in the oil rich Gulf country's of the Middle-east. Later decided to have some Kebab dinner and on the advice of Lilly and Danish headed onto the designated restaurant. Couldn't trace the same and hence hopped into "Master Food" restaurant which was a landmark on the street .Dinner was a Turkish dish of spicy meat costing 47,000 USZ .First time in my life i was having a dinner costing in thousands in local currency !

Broad roads of Tashkent & Fast traffic.A modern city.

                                                                  After dinner walked the long way back to the hostel and as usual relaxed on my laptop.The Tashkent State Higher School of Choreography and National dance  is a prominent building  in the vicinity as also the "Embassy of Italy" and the "Museum of Applied Art". Hence i presume the name "Art Hostel".Young German Ms Lilly had got her on arrival visa to Pakistan and would be flying to Lahore  tomorrow, a lady who has been on the road for the last 2 1/2 years without returning home to Germany.In fact her parents traveled across from Germany to visit her in one of the foreign country's she was backpacking.Travel educates.Went to bed early although just lazying in bed on the smartphone.

At "AMIR TIMUR MUSEUM SQUARE" in Tashkent.

This museum was opened in 1996 and dedicated to the Mongolian Warlord Amir Timur( Tamerlane) founder of the Timurid Empire who reigned from 9 April 1370 - 14 February 1405. Scholars estimate that Timur's military campaigns caused the death of  17 million people amounting to approximately 5% of the human population at that time.DO YOU BELIEVE IN  CURSES ? THE CURSE OF TIMUR'S TOMB :- Timur's body was exhumed from his tomb on 19 June 1941 and his remains examined by Soviet Anthropologists  Mikhail.M.Gerasimov, Lev. V.Oshanin and V. La. Zezenkova. It is alleged that Timur's tomb was inscribed with the words ,quote," When i rise from the dead the World shall tremble". An additional inscription was found inside the casket that read ,quote, " Whomsoever opens my tomb shall unleash a invader more terrible than i ".Just three day's after Mikhail. Gerasimov began the exhumation of Timur's tomb  the German Dictator Adolf.Hitler launched "Operation Barbarossa",the largest military operation of all time against the Soviet Union.Timur was later reburied with full Islamic ritual in November 1942 just before the Soviet victory at the "Battle of Stalingrad".  

 

Tashkent Central Train station.

   Saturday(7/9/2019) Tashkent :- Woke up early after my normal 3-4 hrs sleep and after the  toilet routines and a Jacuzzi style hot water bathe checked the internet mail in the palatial dining cum living room of the bungalow guesthouse."Art Hostel" in Almaty was a spacious 3 bedroom/hall flat while "Art Hostel" in Tashkent could be bigger than most film star bungalows in Mumbai.The hostel had two resident cats and they go into overdrive during breakfast time as do most cat's.Breakfast was free and included in the hostel rentals and absolutely nutritious and lavish.After a sumptuous self-service breakfast got dressed and stepped out of the palatial hostel premises to destination "Amir Timur Square". 

"Amir Timur"Square . .Hotel Uzbekistan in background

                                                                                Decided to first purchase my train return  tickets to Samarkand at Tashkent train terminus and then head to Amir Timur Square.Tashkent Metro railway system is the first underground railway transport system in Central Asia with the first Metro station being opened in 1977 in honour of the 60th anniversary of the Soviet Union.  It was a long walk in the cool morning to "Kosmonavtlar(Comonauts)" metro station and after purchasing a train ticket costing 1400 Sum which was in the form of a token entered this most talked about Metro station in Central Asia. This is a Space age themed station opened in 1984 in honour of cosmonaut Vladimir .Dzhanbekov and  is a tribute to the pioneers of the Soviet space  programme . Photography was strictly banned inside the Metro stations during the Soviet era as well as under  the independent Uzbekistan Government and only recently in  June 2018 were the restrictions lifted and hence as usual  was happy photographing this beautiful metro station.
 

KOSMONAVTLAR:- Space themed Metro Station.

     Coincidentally i was at this showcase space Metro station in Tashkent when earlier in the day  India's first attempt to land the  unmanned craft Chandrayan-2 Lander  "Vikram" on the Moon's surface had failed and the Country was in mourning for this failure.  Boarded the train to Tashkent and after alighting asked for directions for  the out-station trains booking terminus.It was a excellent train building office situated just outside the underground metro terminus and thankfully the receptionist was conversant in English.Was made to collect a slip and wait for my number to be shown on the display board. It was a short wait for my No 38 to be displayed and explained my travel details to the lady ticket issuer. 

"Tashkent Clock Tower" located at "Amir Timur Square"

                                                                               The  tickets to Samarkand and back to Tashkent,one journey by the normal train and the return  by the super-fast bullet "Afrosiob train"   cost me a total of 1,75,000 USZ(Sum). After purchasing the ticked made my way back to Tashkent Metro to travel to "Amir Timur" square. On inquiry was told  to change a train at "Alisher Navoi" station .Boarded the train which was not as crowded as the buses in Almaty and it was a comfortable journey to "Alisher Navoi" where i had to change-over to the "Paxtakor Line" .The station jig-saw metro change-over lines  was not complicated and easily found my way to the right platform and like a local boarded the train to "Amir Timur Station".

Tashkent State university of Law.

  All the Metro train stations in Tashkent are artwork museums depicting  Uzbek culture and heroes.Walking out of Amir Timur Metro was amazed at the sight that greeted my eyes once in the open air and i  am no novice to travelling across both First World as well as developing World Country's and the sight of the broad and spacious roads encircling  Timur square  was a sight out of this world.The bronze equestrian statue of Amir Timur stands in the centre of the Square which is a large garden having fountains and small tree's. The monument plinth has a engraving of Amir.Timur's famous motto in four languages, quote," Power is in Justice".

Magnificent and palatial "Palace of Forums" building.

                                                                                                                                            Hotel Uzbekistan and the Palace of International forums is situated on one side of the square while Uzbekistan University of Law(Formerly Women's Gymnasium)  is another imposing building that encircles Amir Timur Square on the opposite side of the square.Tashkent Clock tower is another landmark around "Amir Timur Square".  The "Palace of International Forums" was built in 2009 to hold important state and International events and impresses with its grandiose architectural design and size.The impressive palace dome is 48 meters in height and its peak is crowned with the figures of Stork birds.

"Palace of the Romanov's(1891)" in Tashkent.

                                                                                                               As usual entered Hotel Uzbekistan and inquired the room rentals which was modest at U.S $100 /Day.Crossed the road on the opposite side of the square and entered "Amir Timur Museum" complex.From the museum complex my  next destination was the "Romanov Palace" and the  " Navoi" theatre and was surprised at the helpfulness of locals in guiding me towards my destination. Amir Timur locality is the main centre of the city having plush office buildings educational institutions and 5-star hotels. Two well dressed gentlemen literally accompanied me akin to  my travels n Almaty .

At "Independence Square" in Tashkent.

                              Finally with great difficulty and a marathon walk reached destination "Romanov Palace" situated opposite Independence Square.

Independence Square in Tashkent.

                                                                                                                        This palace was built for the Grand Duke Nikola .Konstantnovich Romanov in 1891 and is a one storey private residence.He was exiled by his parents to Tashkent in 1877 and lived in the city until his death in 1918. There are two imposing sculptures of dogs at the entrance of the building and bronze deer's on both sides of the entrance stars.At present this imposing historic structure is used as a reception house of Foreign affairs of Uzbekistan. A stand-out 19th century  Bungalow building among the modern buildings in the vicinity.
From "Romanov Palace" crossed the road and entered "Independence Square" which is a large garden with a grand fountain at the entrance.

At the Alisher Navoi Theater in Tashkent.

    The "Monument to Independence" is erected in the centre of the wooded  park and is a metal sphere in ornamental pattern with a map of Uzbekistan.Wreath laying ceremonies are regularly held at the pedestal of this monument on National holidays and State visits.From Independence Square happened to ask a suited gentleman for directions to Alisher  Navoi theater and to my embarrassment he literally walked along with me to the theater complex akin to a guide. Amazing and unbelievable hospitality that i never experienced in any city barring Japan on a few occasions. This National Opera and ballet  theater of Tashkent  is named after Alisher Navoi ,the Chagatai Turkic poet and has a capacity for 1400 spectators.

Plush downtown Navoi street with large park & Hotels

                                                                                                                                              The theater was closed for performance and the new theater season would begin from the end of September. Was eager to watch a Ballet or any other local play just to view the decor and manner of presentation. A long marathon walk requires some rest and hence sat on one of the benches insidethe theatre square..This walk brought back memories of the marathon walks in London in 2010.Penny wise pound foolish marathon walks which are aftereffects of saving bus and train fares for movies during my struggling day's as a student in Mumbai which has followed me into adulthood although now financially healthy and a student of World travel.

Numerous wooded Parks in Tashkent.

                                                                                                                                                  This youth  habit of walking has kept me healthy and sane.After a brief rest inquired about the nearest metro and was floored when told that "Kosmonavtlar" was the closest metro station making me realize  that i had walked kilometers without realizing the same. So now  had to walk all the way to "Art Hostel" and not the nearest metro to reach "Art Hostel".Truth is stranger than fiction. On the route spotted a local self-service restaurant and lunch was Uzbek style rice with lamb curry and a large piece of fish costing only 50,000 UZS. Food is expensive in restaurants in Tashkent and hence most budget  hostelites and students cook in the hostel kitchen as did  my  24 year old Pakistan room-mate Mr Danish.Saleem.

Excellent Uzbek lunch at this restaurant.

This was the normal lunch i would eat at home in Mumbai and travel educates and through my travels appreciate home food for various reasons including cost saving. After the sumptuous lunch made the long way back to "Art Hostel" losing my sense of direction as this was my first outing and again locals going out of their way to help me. I write blogs as well as tour guides for "Trip Adviser" and seems providence in turn at times helps me negotiate difficult situations during my solo travels. Finally reached "Art Hostel" shaken but not defeated in will and spirit. A real tiring day's exploration .Relaxation therapy as usual was on the internet.

A glimpse of "CHORSU BAZAAR" from "Chorsu Metro Station" walkway. Chorsu in Persian means "Crossroads" or "Four Streams" and is over a hundred years old and the  last surviving relic of the main "SILK TRADE  ROUTE"  .Entire Tashkent City has been modernized by the Soviet Union after the 1966 earthquake that destroyed most of Tashkent's historical  old buildings. Chorsu Bazaar is situated in Old Tashkent town and accessible by the Metro railway.These are street side hawkers selling their wares on the lower level of  main Chorsu Bazaar which is situated at a elevation. The Blue domed enclosed building in the distance is the main "Meat Market" where curd and milk products like cheese are also sold."Horse Meat" is a common product sold in the meat market.Next to the enclosed domed market is a long assembly of covered stalls having various divisions selling different food items.Vegetables section comes under one roof as does dry fruits and other common products including fruits.Don't leave Tashkent without visiting Chorsu Bazaar.

Blue Domed modern main market of Chorsu Bazaar.

Sunday(8/9/2019) Tashkent :-After the normal breakfast at 0700 hrs walked out of the hostel onto the familiar street leading to Kosmonavtlar Metro station.Purchased the standard 1400 Som ticket which is the standard fare for any distance across Tashkent city ,be it  one stop or from one end of start of the station terminus line  to the other end of the last station on the terminus.So long distance travel by Metro train in Tashkent is absolutely cheap and also comfortable as the population is less and so also commuter congestion on trains.Barring speaking in Russian or Uzbek language i could be mistaken for a local as such was my confidence in Metro train travel in Almaty in Kazakhstan  and now Tashkent in Uzbekistan. If you have travlled the Metro in European cities then you can travel in any metro across the Globe including Delhi.

Domed Meat Section:- Horse meat & other meat products.

                                                                             Honestly in my own home city of Mumbai i rarely commute by public transport either using my cycle or motorcycle for commuting across the  city.It's only on my foreign travels that i always use public transport of the particular country and Tashkent is my 80th country visited.After three stations alighted at " Chorsu Bazaar " and on entering daylight from the Metro underground tunnel suddenly thought i was in my home-city of Mumbai as there were hawkers selling their wares along the station footpath besides the place was crowded with people unlike Tashkent's spacious broad  streets which had more vehicles on the street than people walking on the footpaths akin to Europe or U.S.A.

Horse meat "SAUSAGES(KAZY)". A Aphrodsiac ?

View of Vegetables & Fruit section of "Chorsu Bazaar".

 

I presume Istanbul Bazaar in Turkey is the largest open air market in the World but walking across "Chorsu Bazaar" assumed  it might be the largest market in Central Asia."CHORSU" is a word from Persian meaning the "Cross-Roads" and it was the trading place on the old silk route between China and Europe.There is a large blue coloured dome building which is the main market where meat  and curds products  are sold under one roof. Outside this domed building are other stalls selling vegetables, fruits,dry-fruits ,clothes ,shoes and every other house-hold products.

"Chorsu Bazaar" :- Under the enclosed blue dome.

                                         Entered the Dome building and for the first time in my life got to view "Horse Meat" being sold as a common non-vegetarian food product akin to chicken,beef and sheep meat.
 

Open Stalls adjacent to Domed market of Chorsu Bazaar.

 There were large sausages known as Kazy that is  made out of horse meat and a common food among locals .Missing was "Pork Meat" and Pork sausages and  the reasons are obvious as Kazakhstan is a Muslim majority country.The only sight of pork  during my travels was the stuffed wild boar head at the "Sunkar Falcon farm" in Almaty.Strolled  around the entire market feeling i was in my home city of Mumbai purchasing my daily day's food products akin  to the locals in this market.Discovered a "Shish  Kebab(Shashlik)" restaurant and decided to have dinner in this restaurant as lavish "Art Hostel" breakfast was difficult to digest even with miles of calories burning in my metabolism system.

Not "Silk" but "Quail Eggs " trade  in Chorsu Bazaar.

   From Chorsu Bazaar  walked the short distance to "Kukeldash Madrasah", also the first time i was entering the precincts of a Madrasah. Kukeldash Madrasah was built in 1570 by the Shaybanid Dynasty of rulers and was one of the few religious buildings that survived the 1966 Tashkent Earthquake which destroyed almost the entire city.Just got a view of the Madrasah from its exterior as being a Non- Muslim entry would be refused.From the Madrasah walked the short distance to "Chorsu Metro"  where i  met a local Uzbek gentleman who spoke to me in perfect Hindi/Urdu.Seems Mr Bhakthawar had spent some time in India and had lived in Mumbai and hence his fluency in Hindi/Urdu.
  

Kukeldash Madrasah near Chorsu Bazaar.

                                                                                  He told me that  the weather in Tashkent was sizzling hot just a  week back and now a sudden change in autumn with cool weather and cloudy skies but no rain.We both boarded the train and later on arrival at "Kosmonavtlar station walked the distance to "Art Hostel".Relaxed in the hostel and later in the afternoon decided to visit "Sacred Heart of Jesus" church, the only Catholic church in Tashkent.Akin to a local walked the distance to Kosmonavtlar station and after purchasing the now familiar 1400 Sum train token boarded the Metro to "Mashinasozlar Station" which was the third station from Kosmonavtlar .

Sacred Heart of Jesus Church in Tashkent.

  On alighting at "Mashinasozlar Station" again asked for directions with the help of my guide map and a local gave me the right direction. It was a long lonely walk of penance for my sins along the lonely footpath of the  broad excellent roads of Tashkent.Car's whizzed past me but not many people visble walking on the footpath's. Finally reached my destination with the church edifice being a looming landmark above  the heavily wooded locality.Tashkent might be one of the World's  top  city's having maximum green cover as wherever i traveled across the city came across either spacious gardens  or pockets of wooded forests.Entered the church grounds which had a beautiful garden of red roses in full bloom akin to a rose farm.The Church main door was closed but the chapel door open and hence entered the chapel where a religious ceremony was in progress. Today was the feast of Nativity which is a religious day in the Catholic Church calendar.After a brief visit to the tiny chapel where there were just about 14 parishioners and a aged priest  strolled across the church grounds.Struck a conversation with Ms Shirin.Tashova who did speak a little English and to my amazement she was also a accomplished painter whose painting of the Virgin Mary was hung inside the chapel.

At Statues dedicated to U.S.S.R Cosmonauts.

 She cut some roses from the "Rose garden" and headed into the chapel after which i walked the long way back to "Mashinasozlar Station" .Missed my way and again a local guided me on the right track through "Internet G.P.S', used by almost everyone in Almaty as well as Tashkent.From "Mashinasozlar Station" boarded the train to "Chorsu Bazaar" station and had a lavish dinner of barbecued Shashlik(Shish Kebabs) along with bread and green tea with the bill amounting to 35,000 Sum. Very reasonable and worth the money.Akin to Late Michael.Jackson being a stranger in Moscow i was definitely no stranger in Tashkent and even the dry fruit hawker recognized me on my return to Chorsu bazaar. Satisfied i took the train back home to "Art Hostel", a local and not a stranger in Tashkent.Strolled around the square outside "Kosmonavtlar Metro" that had statues dedicated to great cosmonauts of the former U.S.S.R.Relaxation was on the Internet in the splendid ambiance  of "Art Hostel" with its open courtyard swimming pool that would give a 5-star hotel a run for their money.

"Laugh and the World laughs with you, Weep and you weep alone", said the Bard of English literature William.Shakespeare.Uzbekistan has a rich history of circus performances since  the "Silk Route " era  when  wandering circus artists travelling on the "Silk Route" performed at various Central Squares usually near the markets.Here i am  at the modern "TASHKENT CIRCUS" complex at Hadra Square in Tashkent.Tashkent State Circus (Tashgostsirk) was set up in 1920 within the framework of Soyuzgostsirk (the USSR State Circus) and  was mainly serving as a stage for guest circus performances. In 1942 the Uzbek circus group was organized in Tashkent and  was the first national circus team on the territory of the former USSR.Akin to Political dynasties the  famous Uzbek circus dynasties, the Tashkenbayevs,Khojaeevs and Zaripovs, began their creative path precisely in those years of Uzbek circus art formation and trade secrets were passed from father to son, from generation to generation until the present day. Soyuza Zaripova was  the first Uzbek female clown and Indian actor Raj.Kapoor's film " Mera Naam Joker"  had a huge fan  following in former U.S.S.R and now Independent Uzbekistan.The new blue domed building of Tashgostsirk was built in 1976, and the building was fully renovated in 1999.Shows are mostly held on Saturday's and Sunday's.

 

Tashkent Television Tower(375 Meters Ht )

 Monday(9/9/2019) Tashkent ;- Normal morning as usual with the  only difference being a sudden change in the weather due to consistent rain during the entire night which drastically reduced the ambient temps.Guests from different country's keep on arriving and departing with young Pakistan student Saleem along with one of his young newly arrived colleague being the oldest room resident since my arrival.At the breakfast table it's a mini gathering of tourists and backpackers from different parts of the Globe.The weather forecast in Tashkent was absolutely accurate and i only hoped that the rains would not prevent me from my day's outdoors exploration agenda.The weather also changed drastically overnight and it was now cold but still pleasant .After a lavish 5-Star breakfast got ready for the day's exploration agenda deciding to visit "Hast Imam Square",the official religious centre of the city.Walked the familiar route in the chill morning cold and boarded the metro at Kosmonavtlar Metro to Beruniy Station.
   

Central Asian Plov Center .Glimpse  of open air kitchen

                             A long ride and finally on reaching the station and asking for direction realized the distance was not worth the walking effort ,besides i would only get a external glimpse of "Hast Imam Square" as entry to Non- Muslims would be forbidden.Walked back to Beruniy Metro and after buying the standard 1400 Sum train token boarded the train to Habib Abdullayev (Shahriston) metro station with my destination being the Tashkent T.V Tower and the "Central Asia Plov Center".From the red line had to change onto  the green  line  train at  "Oybek Station". On  alighting at "Oybek Station" walked over to the green line station of "Ming Urik" station  and finally reached   Habib Abdullayev (Shariston)station.

Central Asian Plov Center: Cooking in Cauldron (Kazan).

                                                                         On alighting the train and exiting the underground Metro was  happy  on seeing the 375 meter(1230 Ft)  high Television tower just a short walking distance from the Metro.The weather was cloudy and cold but not too cold and hence walking was not a laborious task .Tashkent is beautifully planned and maintained except for the Old Tashkent of "Chorsu Bazaar" the entire city is a tribute to 20th-21st century city planning.Nearing the T.V tower inquired about the "Plov Center" and was directed into a sporting complex having a large building in the centre.. On entering the large sporting complex was surprised to see large fixed cauldrons  in one corner of a open air compound leading to the main entrance of the building.

Football ground size dining :"Central Asian Plov Centre".

                                                                  Cooks were busy churning the huge gigantic open air cauldrons  called Kazans and it was a sight straight out of a mass cooking ritual.The staff allowed me to video record the cooking procedure .Each large open air cauldron(Kazan) had a different food item being cooked ranging from raw meat to vegetables and the plov rice. 60 to 100 Kg of rice can be cooked in a single Cauldron.Later entered the "Plov Center" restaurant which was situated  of the ground floor of the  sports complex building.A huge palatial hall that itself resembled a mini football  ground and partially empty at 1030 hrs as it was definitely not normal lunch hours.Uzbekistan's National signature dish is "Plov(Pilaf)" made with rice, pieces of meat,grated carrots,fried sliced potatoes and onions

. 

Early "Plov Lunch" at 1045 hrs in the morning.

                                                                        Was served the Plov dish along with two boiled quail eggs and a slice of horse sausage meat.Green tea ,the National hot beverage  was also served along with the Plov. The tea is served without milk or sugar and tea-houses are of cultural significance in Uzbekistan.Tea always accompanies a meal and a drink of hospitality offered to every guest or customer. For the first time in my life tasted horse meat which was served as a sausage akin to ham or roasted beef and didn't find it relishing.Unlike normal Asian Plov which is normally spicy in taste  the Uzbek Plov had a sweetish taste as chickpeas, raisin's,barberries and fruits are added in the served dish.

Alisher Navoi Metro station.Mosque like design.

                                                                                                                     The lunch charges were modest at 26,000 Sum which could be  another reason for the mass popularity of "Plov Centre",a common nutritious and modestly priced Uzbek food. At the basement of this building was a modern health gymnasium with numerous machines  and a glimpse of a bodybuilder busy on his work-out schedule  made me realize the efforts involved in getting that 6 pack physique.After lunch walked the short distance to the T.V tower which is the eleventh tallest tower in the World and which belongs to the World Federation of Great Towers.There is a tourist observation deck at 97 meters ( 318 ft) and on payment of 40,000 Sum  tourists can have a grand view of the city from the deck.From the T.V tower made my way back to the Metro and boarded the train to Amir Timur  station.Entered "Hotel Uzbekistan " to inquire about guided tours as also to collect a guided city map.

Road outside Gafur Gulom station .Plush Tashkent

                                                                     The map was out of print and hence just visited the garden square and boarded the Metro to "Gafur Gulom" station.Had to change metro line at "Pahtakor(Red Line)  " station onto "Alisher Navoi(Blue Line) "and finally reached destination "'Gafur Gulom".As usual was greeted with the sight of broad spacious roads and in the distance spotted a unique building that made me realize it was the "Tashkent Circus" building.Walked towards the iconic building and on the way came across  "National Food" restaurant similar to "Central Asia Plov " centre  with food being cooked in the open in large open  gas Kazans unlike "Central Asia Plov" where the food is cooked on natural firewood .

Plush Pavement stalls outside"National Food" Restaurant

                   From "National Food" restaurant crossed the road and entered the large palatial "Tashkent Circus" complex which had a large fountain facing the entrance of the building.Inquired about tickets and was told that the circus show was held at 1600 hrs on Sunday's. Raj.Kapoor's "Mera Naam Joker" is till today one of my all time  favourite Hindi films  and among Hindi film stars Raj.Kapoor, Mithun.Chakravarty,Amitabh.Bachchan ,Amir.Khan, Salman.Khan and Shah Rukh.Khan are names i often encountered while interacting with locals in Almaty as well as Tashkent.From "Tashkent Circus" walked back to the Metro and like a local was back to my home away from home in Tashkent.The vicinity of Zanzhirbog is a plush locality with Bungalow houses ,a dance academy and a museum in the vicinity. A quiet plush residential area and "Art Hostel" locality  and decor  could be akin to Actor Shah Rukh Khan's landmark bungalow "Mannat" back home in Mumbai according to my assumption..Travel educates.

"ZANGIOTA MEMORIAL COMPLEX " in Zangi-Ota village about 20 Kms from Tashkent city. The Memorial complex consists of buildings of "Zangiota Mausoleum","Anbar-Bibi Mausoleum", Minaret,  Madrasah,Memorial Mosque and a Ancient Cemetery., 

Inside Zangiota Memorial complex in  Uzbekistan.

 Tuesday(10/9/2019) Tashkent :- Normal daily routines and breakfast as usual and one thing unique and similarity between backpacker travellers and seafarers is that both have to adjust to living in different environments,climatic zones and different nationalities.Today the weather was excellent and normal with no rainfall .Today my destination was "Zangiota Mausoleum" situated about 20  kms from Tashkent city.First decided to visit "Hotel Uzbekistan" to collect the travel guide  map and  boarded  the  train at "Kosmonavtlar station(Blue Line) and changed over at "Alisher Navoi" station  to board the red line train from "Pahtakor Station" to "Amir Timur Station". The train was crowded with office goers but comfortable.

Sprawling landscaped garden of "Zangiota Memorial"

                                    Walked the short distance from "Amir Timur " station into Hotel Uzbekistan and fortunately the travel guide maps were in circulation. Collected a guide map  and boarded the red line train from "Amir Timur" station with  travel by Metro train  being  very quick and soon i was at  Chilonzor Station.As usual from the underground Metro got out into broad daylight and realized i was in a very congested section of the city totally at sea regarding directions to Zangiota Mausoleum.Inquired the direction and method to reach Zangiota Mausoleum and was told to board a bus. As mentioned locals across the city had gone out of their way to help me in finding locations and a pavement lady hawker wrote down the numbers of two buses for destination Zangiota Mausoleum. 

Grand entrance gate to "ZANGIOTA MEMORIAL".

                                                                                                                     Even then it was confusing and a kind local gentleman  showed me the N0 84 bus approaching our bus stop and told me to board the same.It was a long 45 minutes bus ride along the old road to Samarkand crossing past the city limits of Tashkent  and  the highway toll- booth finally reaching my destination in the countryside of Tashkent region.The Zangiota Mausoleum is the resting place of Sheikh Al- Hodge (Zangi-Ota) .Construction of the Mausoleum was ordered by Amir Timur immediately after the death of the Sufi in 1390 and till today this tomb has not been opened.Entered the Mausoleum complex which combines the tomb of the saint,a sprawling garden,Madrasah,memorial mosque and a minaret. 

"Mustaqillik Maydoni" metro station of Tashkent..

                                                                                                                            A serene and beautiful place although entering certain places of worship were restricted to me as a Non-Muslim tourist.A hundred meters from the Mausoleum is a cemetery that has the memorial complex and mausoleum of  Bibi-Anbar, the wife of the Sufi saint.She is the patron saint of women and children and hence pilgrims go to her grave to seek blessings for a long awaited offspring.Complex Zangiota is the most important historical and religious monument in Tashkent .At the entrance to the Mausoleum Complex is a bakery selling large breads and eatables with the most popular being "somosa".

Glimpse of crowd at "Paxtakor Metro" station.

                                                                                                                              After exiting the Mausoleum complex tasted a Somosa costing only 1000 Sum and was pleased with the freshness and taste.Boarded a Marshrutka(Russian) "N0 463" which are shared mini van taxi's plying along a fixed set route within the city and at a price of 2000 Sum made the long 45 mins road journey back to "Chilonzor Metro".Boarded the red line train to "Paxtakor Station" and changed over at  the blue line "Alisher Novoi" station  to the train heading to "Gafur Gulom" station.Alighted at "Gafur Gulom" station and walked towards "National  Food" restaurant. A newly opened "KFC " restaurant facing the underground metro exit/entrance  was the landmark of the street with its huge iconic "KFC Colonel" advertisement .Strangely the bustling "National Food" restaurant situated about 100 meters away on the same footpath opposite the street facing Tashkent Circus didn't even have a signboard let alone a advertisement.

Uzbek lunch at "National  Food" near Tashkent Circus.

                                                              Some eateries do not require a trade brand name as word of mouth,restaurant longevity  and quality of food ensures brisk business. "National  Food" is a smaller identical version of "Central Asia Pilao" serving authentic Uzbek cuisine.Lunch was yesterday's repetitive dish of "Plov/quail egg/Horse meat sausage" with green tea that was almost identical in taste to "Central Asia Plov" center.The restaurant was crowded as it was prime lunch time at 1230 hrs.The bill amounted to 30,000 Sum , slightly expensive than "Central Asia Plov".Honestly the Plov lunch is meant for two people but to avoid wasting food managed to force myself to eat the entire dish. 

Preparation of food in Kazans at "National Food" .

                                                                                                                                After  lunch walked the short distance back to "Gafur Gulom " station and wanted to use the toilet  and to my horror suddenly realized that Tashkent's entire metro system does not have "PUBLIC TOILETS". What a blunder in Metro design in one the World's most beautiful Metro railway system and wonder if there were specific reasons for the same.Suppressed my urinary bladder and boarded the blue line metro to home station of Kosmonavtlar .On reaching Art hostel came across a Caucasian male and female tourist sun bathing next to the pool.

End of a travel day ."ART HOSTEL' pool.

     There was bright hot sunshine and asked American Mr Patrick if he intended having a dip in the tiny tub sized pool to which he did respond by wading into the water.He said it was cold and decided to test the water myself and after changing into swimming shorts had a plunge in the cold pool water.Excellent, reminding me of cold winter swims at the "M.G.M.O(Mahatma Gandhi Memorial Olympic)" pool in my home city of Mumbai.The dip in the cold water banished my travel fatigue and later after a hot Jacuzzi style shower relaxed on the Internet.Later in the evening strolled across the street and entered a liquor shop to inquire the price of liquor with Vodka and beer being very cheap in comparison to the cost back home in India.Returned back to the hostel with a can of beer and sipped the same besides the swimming pool conversing with American Patrick who was also nursing  a drink of vodka/coke.Later packed my luggage for departure to Samarkand. 

Travelling from Tashkent to Samarkand on  "TRAIN N0 008" on Seat N0 2 in Coach N0 9 of the "Economy Class" in the normal and not fast  train .Excellent plush seating accommodation much better than normal economy class air travel.Departure Tashkent from Yuzhny Vokzal (South railway Terminus) was at prompt 0855 hrs and reached Samarkand Station at 1155 hrs according to time table schedule.

             

Taxi :"Art Hostel" to "Tashkent South Railway Station".

Wednesday(11/9/2019) Departure Tashkent and arrival Samarkand :- After my normal 3-4 hrs sleep was awake as usual whiling away my time on the smartphone.Had a bathe and a quick breakfast as also sad to say good-bye to the two cute cat's as also the excellent "Art Hostel" through which i came across backpackers of different nationalities .At 0715 hrs hostel manager got me a taxi on a hire charge of 10,000 Sum whose Russian driver couldn't speak a word of English.It was a nice early morning drive in less vehicular traffic to Tashkent South Railway station.Thanked the driver and headed into the station where i was directed towards the main train terminus.Entry into the main terminus was through a routine security check akin to entry into any airport.

Tashkent South Railway Terminal.(Yuzhny Vokzal)

                                                            On entering the station was amazed at the cleanliness and orderliness of the large open air railway terminus. On inquiry was told to board the train on Platform N0 5 which had a train's entire railway coach stationed alongside the platform.On walking across to Platform N0 5 was greeted by a sight straight out of a James Bond movie with a uniformed  railway inspector standing outside each railway coach. During the Soviet Union era the railway system was accorded top priority and status with railway stations doubling as Nuclear shelters in case of a Nuclear war and hence photographs of railway's and Metro systems totally banned. Uzbekistan railway's was definitely maintained to the highest order on par with the Soviet Union after Independence. 

Train "N0 008" with Ticket Inspector outside each Coach.

                                                                                                                             Language was a barrier and almost ended up entering into the wrong coach which would have taken me to another city instead of Samarkand.Providence and decades of travel experience saved the day and finally a Ticket inspector guided me to Coach-9 onto seat N0 2  in the economy class.If this was "Economy Class" then "Business Class" was left to imagination as the "Economy Class" was absolutely clean with a red carpet rolled throughout the length of the compartment and cushioned seats with tables and magazines .Better than business class air travel ! The train departure was punctual at 0855 hrs on a bright sunny morning.

Catering service of Train N0 "008" economy class.

                                                                                                  The Ticket Inspector Mr Maxmedov. Maxmud  sat down next to me and did manage to speak to each other through gestures and prompting.He explained the method of deciphering the train ticket akin to reading a horse Race Guide  book.During the journey refreshments were served by the train canteen services with the vendor seen in the photo parroting a string of Hindi film star names and a song to me on realizing i was from India.Among the yesteryear's actors Raj.Kapoor and  Mithun.Chakravorty was on everyone's lips and among the present generation it was Shah Rukh Khan as also Prime Minister Narendra.Modi.
 

Glimpse of Uzbek farmland from the train

                                                                  I myself was baffled on being treated like Hindi actor  Rajesh.Khanna during his hey day's in Indian cinema  with  locals going out of their way to help me communicate and find my way to tourist  locales during my entire travel tour across Almaty and now Tashkent.The train finally reached Samarkand at 1155 hrs , another beautiful and well maintained station.Exiting the station entered the tourist information shop and inquired about the buses to Registan.Taxi driver's approached me with fares of 20,000 Sum(approx 20 U.S $) which was astronomical.Walked the short distance to the bus terminal and boarded bus N0 73 to Registan hoping to find my way to " Trip .LE Guest House".

Arrival Samarkand.Beautiful First  World railway station.

                                                        Public transport is very cheap in Central Asia and the ticket to Registan was only 1200 Sum in comparison to 20,000 Sum quoted by the taxi driver.It was a long ride through the beautiful well planned city of Samarkand which did have trams on the streets  unlike Almaty or Tashkent. On alighting at Registan my main worry of locating the hostel began as unlike most  European city's , Central Asian cities do not have a "Old Town Square" as a base to begin direction finding  and on inquiry at a restaurant was guided through "Google Navigation/Phone" by a stranger Mr Erkin .He rang up the guesthouse and  pointed out the directions towards Karimov street . On walking further past Karimov statue again got confused and on inquiry with a group of taxi drivers was told to hire a taxi costing  20,000 Sum which was daylight robbery .

"Trip LE" guesthouse open air compound & Dining.

                        Thanks to years of travel did  find my bearings by  walking further and inquiring  with another local who again phoned the hotel and guided me in the right direction."Trip.LE Guest House" is situated in close proximity to the Registan Square  in a narrow shoddy by-lane.For the first time came across pot-hole roads in  Uzbekistan making me realize i was on the right track to discovering the ancient "Silk Route" as this narrow  bumpy uneven road looked more like a ancient camel track rather than a modern 21st century road as seen all over Tashkent and Samarkand.Akin to a treasure hunt on the "Silk Route" there were direction indicators installed by   "Trip LE Guest House"  along the narrow lane and finally reached the bungalow style guesthouse.

Beautiful  Landscaped Islam Karimov pedestrian  street.

                The manager Mr Xomidov .Mukhammad welcomed me and seems "Trip Le " guesthouse had a change of ownership in 2018 and was formerly called "Minora Guesthouse"  being  actually 11 years in the business as a guesthouse. Checked into my room situated on the ground floor which had 5 double bunk beds accommodating a total of  10 guests and  a large open air compound in the center of the hostel.A private Bungalow hostel akin to "Art Hostel" in Tashkent. Although travelling solo have  never on any of my travels  ever felt lost or lonely and as usual came across new travel acquaintances in "Trip LE Guest House". Met Mr Syed.Kazmi a retired American citizen of Indian origin from Hyderabad travelling with his wife and daughter and got into a conversation with him.In hostels total strangers become acquaintances exchanging travel information or discussing any topic under the Sun or moon.

"Samarkand Non" at Bakery.

                                                            After settling into my dormitory later had a late lunch of "2 Shish Kebab(Shashlik)/bread " costing 26,000 sum at  plush local "Chorrahu restaurant ".Returned back to the hostel and had a short talk with my next bed traveller Mr Ramesh.Misly who bizarrely was a Indian origin Gujarati from Nairobi now settled in Bangkok but strangely having no ties with India and  holding a dual American and British passport .We discussed Kenya  and strangely it's a small World.Later in the evening had a walk towards Registan which was crowded with tourists and purchased some toilet products ,a shaving kit and two cups of yogurt, my favourite energy drink on the road. Weather was excellent with a cool breeze blowing and relaxed my tiredness by  sitting in the spacious open air courtyard updating  my day's travel through blogging on the computer.A elderly German couple were seated next to me and the gentleman offered me a glass of local brewed beer which tasted a bit bitter and definitely something different.Weather was cool but not very cold and as usual went to sleep with my sweater and with  3-4 hrs of sleep refreshed my biological system.

At the "REGISTAN ENSEMBLE" in Samarkand.I am standing in the public viewing courtyard with the Registan ensemble behind me. Registan was the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand during the era of the Timurid dynasty.This was a place where people gathered to hear Royal Proclamations as well as witness public executions and has 3 Madrahsah's situated  in a triangular angle around the square.The Tilya-Kori Madrasah( 1646-1660)  faces the main entry gate of Registan square. To the right side of Tilya-Kori Madrasah is the oldest Madrasah "Ulugh Beg Madrasah( 1417-1420) and to the left side of Tilya-Kori Madrasah is Sher-Dor Madrasah( 1619-1636).Madrasah is the Arabic term for "School".The  present Registan is a restored and repaired version  by the Soviet Government undertaken  in various stages during the early 20th century with the major restoration work undertaken between 1967-1987.Today Registan Square besides being the prime tourist attraction  is the venue for the Sharq Taronalari a International festival of traditional music.

   

Tilya-Kori Madrasah( 1646-1660) in Registan

Thursday(12/9/2019) Samarkand :- At dawn had a quick bathe and whiled away my time on the Internet. In hostels i always have bathe at approximately 0500 to 0600 hrs when almost everyone is asleep.In the dormitory system toilets/bathrooms are shared and hence to avoid a queue during prime toilet/bathing hours i have always been  a early bird in toilet routines through all country's and city's visited irrespective of the ambiance or quality of the hostel. Old habits die hard.Breakfast was between 0800-0900 hrs and akin to "Art Hostel" in Tashkent was lavish with a added bonus of being served rather than self-service akin to a plush restaurant.

"Ulugh Beg Madrasah( 1417-1420) in Registan

                            Met a few Japanese tourists at the breakfast table while yesterday's one day acquaintances Mr Syed.Kazmi and Mr Ramesh.Misly left the hostel for other travel destinations.In the morning it is chill cold but once the Sun rises the weather is pleasant with bright sunshine.After breakfast left the hostel and headed towards destination Registan."Trip LE" hostel location is excellent as it is just ten minutes walking distance from Registan Square which is the focal centre of Samarkand..On reaching the Registan garden and seeing the square along with its three Madrasah's from the front side  brought back memories of the first time i set my eyes on the Taj Mahal in Agra. 

Sher-Dor Madrasah( 1619-1636) in Registan.

                                                                                                                              The sight is awesome .Entry into the Registan Square costs 40,000 Sum/person and allows the visitor to enter each of the three Madrahsah's.The Square is approximately 110 m X 60 m and  was the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand during  Timurud dynasty ."Registan" in Persian means "Sandy Place" or "Desert".This was a place where people gathered to hear Royal Proclamations as well as witness public executions and has 3 Madrahsah's situated  in a triangular angle around the square.The Tilya-Kori Madrasah( 1646-1660)  faces the main entry gate of Registan square and was the final building construction in the Registan Square ensemble.The name "Tilya-Kori" means decorated with gold" as its building facade has a rich decoration of gold.

Inside view of  Tilya-Kori Madrasah 

                        To the right side of Tilya-Kori Madrasah is the oldest Madrasah "Ulugh Beg Madrasah( 1417-1420) and to the left side of Tilya-Kori Madrasah is Sher-Dor Madrasah(1619-1636).Madrasah is the Arabic term for "School".Today Registan Square besides being the prime tourist attraction  is the venue for the Sharq Taronalari a International festival of traditional music.I have shown all the 3 different Madrahsah facades in the above. photographs.
Entered each Madrasah whose internal rooms were converted into handicraft and curio shops .

Curio shops inside Ulugh Beg Madrasah

                                                                     The entire Registan Square Madrasah's have been repaired and renovated over the centuries.In the Sherdor Madrasah got to view the weaving of silk carpets in the mosque dome room.In another room two artisans were busy engraving copper plate curio's.On the Sherdor Madrasah facade mosaics there are portraits of tigers although Islam religion does not permit the use of living creatures on buildings. Sherdor when translated means "Madrasah with lions"Strolled around the square and revisited the three Madrasah's reviving my textbook school studies little realizing that one day i would be realizing my childhood fantasy of visiting Samarkand.In 2019 Samarkand is a city of the 21st century with large spacious paved roads akin to Tashkent and the only remains of the once prominent World center of the "Silk Trade route" are the historic preserved monuments within the city.
From Registan Square decided to visit "Gur -E-Amir(Amir Timur Mausoleum)" which is approximately 1 km from Registan Square. With the help of my guide map and asking for directions finally reached the Gur-E-Amir the main model tomb for the later Mughal architecture tombs,most importantly , the Taj Mahal of Agra..
 

SILK ROUTE : Silk carpet shop in Sherdor Madrasah

                                                             From the Mausoleum headed back towards Registan passing through Amir Timur park  which has the monuments of two majestic seated tigers.Took the wrong road and entered a plush local restaurant for lunch and as usual lunch was "Shish  Kebab/bread" with a addition of draft beer costing 18,000 Sum. Beer is cheap and freely available in restaurants . After the meal retraced my bearings and headed on the right road towards Registan Square and from there to "Trip LE" guesthouse. Relaxed on the internet in the plush spacious open air garden lounge of the guesthouse.In the evening had a stroll in the opposite direction of Registan Ensemble and at a cycle hire stand along the garden pathway  inquired for directions to "Bibi Khanym" mosque as also the rental price of a cycle. 

Entrance to Gur-E-Amir (Amir Timur) Mausoleum

                                                                                                     Rentals were at 50,000 Sum/Hr which made me realize the importance and value of my cycle back home in Mumbai.Walking along the beautiful paved  Karimov street purchased a "Cone Ice-cream" costing 1000 Sum and realized that ice-creams and liquor was comparatively cheap in Uzbekistan. Karimov Street is a walk along a plush tourist locale with beautiful trees lining the paved road and walking along the straight road discovered "Bibi Khanym Mosque" .Facing the mosque on the opposite side of the road is "Bibi Khanym Mausoleum" and a little further down the road is "Siyob Bazaar". 

Amir Timur Park  in Samarkand.Tiger monuments.

       As i had ample time decided to visit the tourist attraction the next day and instead strolled into the clean "Siyob Bazaar". Unlike the crowded "Chorsu Bazaar" of Tashkent which closely resembled a Indian bazaar the "Siyob Bazaar" was less crowded and methodically designed for cleanliness and orderliness in display of wares.Dry fruits were the most popular eatables on sale and strangely observed that "Horse Meat" was not available in the market nor sold in the plush  two restaurants i visited in Samarkand.Walked back to the hostel and crashed onto my bunker bed for my normal 3-4 hrs siesta sleep.

At the Shah-I-Zinda Necropolis in Samarkand.The Shah-i-Zinda ensemble includes Mausoleums and other ritual buildings formed over a period of eight centuries (11th-19th Century) and now comprises of more than 20 buildings situated on a small inclined hill accessed by steps.The name Shah-i-Zinda (meaning "The living king") is connected with the legend that Kusam-Ibn-Abbas, a cousin of Prophet Muhammed buried here.The ensemble comprises three groups of structures: lower, middle and upper connected by four-arched domed passages locally called chartak. The earliest buildings date back to the 11-12th centuries. Mainly their bases and headstones have remained now. Most part dates back to the 14-15th centuries. Reconstructions of the 16-19th centuries were of no significance and did not change the general composition and appearance of the Shah-I-Zinda ensemble.

 

At Bibi-Khanym Mosque complex.

                              Friday(13/9/2019) Samarkand :- Today is "Friday the 13th" full moon autumn celebration night in the U.S.A , a rare occurence that will next occur on 13  August 2049 !The Full moon closest to the Spring Equinox is known as the Harvest Moon .Was awake as usual and on the Internet in the hostel open air courtyard,Breakfast was at 0800 hrs and came across a few young Japanese tourists from Osaka of which one lady Ms Daifuku.Shorin was a journalist /publisher by profession.Seems Uzbekistan receives a lot of Japanese and Korean tourists among the Asian crowd .All hostels have different types of accommodation ranging from private self attached rooms to common toilet mixed dormitory akin to my accommodation in "Trip LE  guesthouse".Hence families as also solo travellers live in the same hostel akin to a hotel with the only difference being in the hostel rentals. Over the decades have met and lived alongside almost all the World's nationalities first during my ship board employment and port stay's as a "Marine Engineer" and  post shipping premature retirement   due to stay's in hostels .

Repair work of replacing Mosaic in Bibi-Khanym Mosque.

                                                                                     A true cosmopolitan World traveler's badge !After breakfast made my way out of the hostel walking down the plush Karimov street towards "Bibi Khanym Mosque".This street is strictly a pedestrian street and only 2-wheeler cycles and tourist buggies are allowed on its beautiful landscaped street with lush green trees on either side of the street.Entrance to "Bibi Khanym Mosque" was 25,000 Sum .In the 15th Century this was the largest and most important mosque in the Islamic World. What i was now seeing was the reconstructed ruins by the Soviet Government for preservation of what was once a  magnificent monument of Islamic architecture.   

Stone Quran of Timurud era in Bibi-Khanym Mosque .

                                                                                The design of the mosque square is similar to the Registan Ensemble . In the centre of the courtyard is a stone pedestal which is a huge Koran stand that is crafted from marble rocks and originates from the era of Timur.This mosque built after Timur's India campaign in 1399 was completed in 1404 and was supposed to accommodate the entire male population of Samarkand for the Friday prayers. Now in the 21st century  akin to the Registan Madrasah's there are souvenir shops inside this  huge domed  mosque, a total tourist attraction .A group of local Uzbek tourists requested me to click a photo with them in a traditional Uzbek cap.Located opposite the Bibi Khanym Mosque is the 14 the century Mausoleum of Bibi Khanym that also has 5 other tombs

At entrance of Bibi Khanym Mosque.

                                                                                                                                                       From "Bibi Khanym Mosque" began my walk towards "Shah-I-Zinda" necropolis admiring the beauty of the excellent paved roads of Samarkand.Entrance fee amounted to approximately 20,000 Sum which included camera fees. The Mausoleums and religious buildings are situated along  a small inclined hill which forms the "Shah-I- Zinda Necropolis" complex .Hence its a short upward walk through steps to view the entire Necropolis  complex constructed over a period of eight centuries.The name Shah-I- Zinda means "Living King" and is connected with the legend that Kusam Ibn.Abbas  , a cousin of Prophet Mohammed is buried here.Entered the Kusam Ibn Abbas mausoleum and mosque where some prayers were being recited while tourists including myself were busy photographing the same.Visited most of the tombs and the entire complex was crowded with tourists.
 

Main Entrance to Shah-I-Zinda Necropolis .

                                                    The weather was excellent with bright sunshine and cool breeze on a "Friday the 13th" Autumn  full moon night.After visiting almost all the mausoleums made my exit and walked back towards Siyob Bazaar . On the way entered a normal common graveyard and was surprised to find monuments over each graveyard akin to Christians  with a obituary and photo of the deceased person engraved on the monument over the grave. There were no crosses and on inquiry was told that these were normal Islamic graves which surprised me as Indian Muslims , the second largest Muslim population in the World never ever erect a facial memorial over a graveyard irrespective of the dead person's status or wealth  in society. 

Partial view of Shah-I-Zinda Necropolis.

                                                                                                                                           Travel educates and i was seeing a different aspect  of the practice of the  Islamic faith in Central Asia.On arriving at Siyob Bazaar inquired about bus N0 70 to "M.Ulugh Begh Observatory" situated about 6 Kms from Registan Ensemble. In Samarkand "Registan Ensemble" is the centre focal point of the city akin to its importance during the  "Silk Route" era and all distances within the city calculated with the reference point being this historic locale.Luck favoured me and i immediately boarded a N0 70 that had just arrived at the bus depot.
 

Common modern graveyard near Shah-I-Zinda .

                                                                       On boarding the bus requested a young  local man to guide me to the right stop and to my surprise he told me to travel free of cost which would have embarrassed Indian superstar actor Mr Shah Rukh Khan who definitely cannot travel incognito in Central Asia unlike in European Country's. Ahoy ! Observed that the roads in this part of the city were bad akin to a few pothole roads in my home city of Mumbai.A dent in the "First World " status of Samarkand city as well as Uzbekistan.Same applied to the narrow approach road from plush Registan Ensemble landscape gardened grounds to my hostel "Trip L E" which was littered with potholes , a two wheeler's nightmare.

Ulugh Beg Observatory:Museum and historic trench ruin

                                                                                                      I wouldn't like riding a  motorcycle to "Trip LE " hostel in the dark. Finally on arriving at Ulugh Begh bus stop the young gentleman pointed out the locale and thanking him headed towards the "Ulugh Begh Observatory",a short walk from the bus-stop. Ulugh Begh is the main centre in Samarkand  for travel by private taxi's to other parts of Uzbekistan with the most common route being to the capital city Tashkent.A few taxi drivers approached me inquiring if i required a taxi to Tashkent which i politely declined.Entrance to "Ulugh Begh Observatory"museum  cost 20,000 Sum and there was a large crowd of Caucasian tourists speaking some foreign language.The Ulugh Begh Observatory was built sometime in the 1420's by Timurid scholar Ulugh Begh .Scholars consider it the finest observatory in the Islamic World.

"Hazarati Khizr Mosque" near Siyob Bazaar.

   The Observatory was destroyed by religious fanatics in 1449 and rediscovered in 1908 by Uzbek-Russian archaeologist from Samarkand Mr V.L.Vyatkin. After purchasing the ticket first visited the museum of the observatory which had descriptions in the English language. Next visited the tunnel that gives a elongated view of the archaeological excavation remains of a section of the "Fakhri Sextant" rediscovered in 1908.Observed a newly married  couple with the bride wearing a western attired white wedding dress getting their photographs and video filmed on the Ulugh Beg Observatory ground.From the observatory made my way back to the bus-stop but found difficulty in finding the right place to board N0 70 bus. Locals were helpful and a young lady walked me the short distance to the bus-stand.

 Glimpse of 21st century Samarkand from a Foot-bridge.

                                                                  A few commuters were also waiting for buses and hence found confidence in numbers. i was at the right place to board the bus.A few taxi driver's approached me and finally boarded a shared taxi with another two passengers costing 3000 Sum to Siyob Bazaar.On alighting at Siyob Bazaar visited the complex of the  beautiful designed "Hazarati Khizr Mosque" situated on a small hill. This mosque that was originally built in the 8th century was burned to the ground by Genghis(Chinggis).Khan in the 13th century and not rebuilt until 1854.The present mosque is a new structure built about 25 years ago. Hazrat Khizr was a Muslim saint and a patron of travellers and considered auspicious for water resources and wealth. The name in Arabic means "Green Light"

"Shashlik Lunch" at classic "Bobor Shashlikxanasi " .

                                                  The Mausoleum of the First president of Uzbekistan Islam. Karimov lies adjacent to the Hazrat Hizr mosque.It was Friday and a day of religious prayer for the Muslim congregation but didn't observe a large crowd at the mosque . Photography of the President's mausoleum  is strictly prohibited.From the mosque complex walked the short distance into Siyob Bazaar and got my right foot Adidas shoe stitched by the market cobbler stationed right at the entrance of this large modern open air Bazaar of Samarkand.I was now hungry and longing for my addiction of  Central Asia Russian style "Sheekh Kabab(Shashlik)", called Shashlik in Russian.

"FRIDAY THE 13TH" Full Moon night in Samarkand.

                                                                                                                                            Siyob Bazaar eateries had normal fast food and chicken barbecues  and  a Plov restaurant .Walking away from the bazaar accidentally took the back door exit facing the back end of "Bibi Khanym Mosque" and found myself staring at one of the most authentic Russian origin Shashlik joint restaurant named "Bobor Shashlikxanasi " .Entered the restaurant that had various types of barbecued meat on display except horse meat.There were caged Quail  birds hanging from the roof of the restaurant and the place was crowded and doing brisk business. 

Bibi Khanym Mausoleum on Full Moon 13 Friday Night

Registan Square garden at Night.

                                                   Lunch was 3  Shashlik  sticks of sheep meat, liver and shish kebab's with a pint of beer and bread.The total bill amounted to approximately 40,000 Sum and was worth the money and in fact cheap for the quality and authentic ambiance of this restaurant.After lunch walked the now short familiar distance to "Trip LE" guesthouse and relaxed on the laptop Internet.In the evening after dark walked to "Registan Square" which was brightly illuminated and a sight to behold.In the adjoining Karimov street  kids were happy driving  toy car's while the cycles on hire did brisk business as youngsters cycled along the beautiful traffic free road.

Registan Ensemble illuminated at night.

          Came across two young men who took a photograph with me and later educated me on transferring photo's without internet through "Blue Tooth" format.Throughout my travel across Central Asia  beginning in  Almaty in Kazakhstan and next  across Tashkent and finally  Samarkand in Uzbekistan  was amazed at the "Internet Smartphone" literacy of the average locals.Akin to the former usage of the "Sextant"and now satellite navigation at Sea i would have been lost in finding my way on numerous occasions if not for the generous help of locals through "Internet Google Smartphone" application.  From Registan square walked back along Karimov street towards"Bibi Khanym Mosque " which was also partially illuminated .The street was deserted except for a few locals and tourists as also cyclists.Returned back to the hostel and packed up for the nights 3-4 hrs sleep.My last night in a hostel as tomorrow would be departing to Tashkent to board the flight to Delhi.

"AFROSIYOB  Train  N0 763" at  Samarkand railway station  :- Finally a end of the "SILK ROUTE DISCOVERY TRAVEL TOUR" that began in Mumbai in India and would also  end in Mumbai in India. The Afrosiyob is the fastest train in Uzbekistan, with a speed of up to 230km/h +.Outside every carriage is a lady or gent ticket inspector who checks the ticket and guides the passenger to their seats.Much better than any normal economy class air travel.

 

 

Classic 5-star type breakfast at " Trip LE" 

                                      Saturday (14/9/2019) Departure Uzbekistan :- Normal breakfast as usual with the hostel packed with tourists mostly from Japan.Met a young Dutch girl at the breakfast table whose passion besides travelling is cycling and has ridden her cycle from Holland to London and back.Doing 100Kms + of cycling in a day for her  is akin to me daily swimming 2 Kms at the "M.G.M.O" pool back home in Mumbai. Travel educates .After breakfast checked out my luggage from the hostel room and kept it in the lobby as is normal in almost all hostels across the Globe.Next  walked upto Registan Square road terminus inquiring about buses N0 73 and N0 3 to take me to the railway station.

Beautiful Pedestrian Registan & Karimov Streets.

                                                                                                          Penny wise pound foolish money saving scheme  in "Stock Market Apocalypse-2019".From Registan Square boarded a shared  tourist buggy  for transport to "Siyob Bazaar" costing 2000 sum/person. Alighted at "Siyob Bazaar" and headed to the clothing bazaar situated outside the main bazaar complex.

One for camera's! Registan to Siyob Bazaar buggy ride.

                              This bazaar reminded me of the fashion street stalls of home city Mumbai  with shops lining the open air street corner outside Siyob bazaar selling clothing and shoes products with some counterfeit branded names on display.Purchased a pair  of  Turkish manufactured leather shoes and a local leather jacket.It's been decades since i had last purchased a informal jacket and hence better late than too late  to update my wardrobe.From "Siyob Bazaar" walked the distance back to "Trip L E " guesthouse and relaxed on the Internet.My last lunch of the "Silk Route travel discovery" tour in Uzbekistan was at 1300 hrs at my first restaurant on arrival in Samarkand ,the "Chorrahu Restaurant".

Siyob Bazaar entrance ,the largest in Samarkand .

                           The culture of Samarkand is quite different from Tashkent and in most restaurants they hang cages on a rope across the restaurant covered with a cloth with each cage  containing a quail.Some of these quails are used for "Quail Fights" and also in "Quail musical competitions".Quails are very noisy birds and have a unique high shrill chirp like a piano  musical note.The musical chirping of the quails seems a sort of solace for the diners at the table including me.Quails are also a  meal on the menu chart .This restaurant didn't serve alcohol and lunch was the addictive 3 pieces of  Shashlik sticks along with bread and salad costing 43,000 sum.

Open Air section of palatial "Siyob Bazaar".

                           Throughout my entire "Silk Road travel tour"  i lived on only 2 meals a day, breakfast and a late lunch/dinner. This has been a normal food schedule on all my solo tours and helps me reduce excess body fat accumulated during my potato couch lifestyle on the lap-top  back  home in Mumbai. A young local diner clicked a photo with me and after lunch walked the short distance back to the hostel.Relaxed on the Internet in the open air courtyard and advised young cook/housekeeper Ms Zulya to reduce her smoking habit as during my short stay always observed her lighting cigarettes one after the other, definition of a "Chain Smoker".

Enclosed fruits & Vegetables section of Siyob Market.

                               Thanked hostel manager Mr Xomidov .Mukhammad for his help in directing me to the various tourist locales as also providing me the "Samarkand Tourist map".Later at 1500 hrs requested the hostel assistant to phone  for a taxi and finally bid goodbye to "Trip LE " at 1515 hrs. It was a 8 Kms drive to Samarkand station in average traffic conditions with the bill amounting to 15,000 sum, reasonable in comparison to Europe or the Asian cities of Singapore,Hong Kong  or Tokyo.Travel educates.On entering Samarkand Station was amazed at the architectural construction and design of the interiors , a ultra modern showcase of a 21st century building better than most airport terminals that i have visited  across the Globe .

End of "SILK TRADE ROUTE "  shopping.

               Akin to airport security had to pass through a stringent security check with my ticket cross checked with the passport.I was very early and akin to a airport parked myself on a lounge chair as were a few other tourist  passengers. The electronic train arrival/departure timetable was constantly flashing across a screen monitor akin to a airport in the local language and was  hoping that my train was on schedule. Inquired with a seated elderly Swiss couple regarding my train itinerary and they briefly explained me the flashing electronic  train schedule timetable and was relieved to note that departure time of the Afrosoib was as per the ticket schedule.

Cycling is a excellent means of sightseeing Samarkand.

                                     The  gambler in me  was taking a huge risk by travelling on the same day on a long distance  train and a connecting air flight. Was optimistic of the trains  arrival time schedule in Tashkent to be  approximately 1915 hrs with ample time to board a connecting taxi from the Tashkent train station to the airport and later  the "Air Astana " flight to Delhi scheduled for 2320 hrs .Visited the few shops  situated inside the plush train terminus selling eatables and handicrafts. Later the "Afrosiob Train N0 763 " arrived on the  platform facing the terminal lounge and its sight was impressive akin to viewing the Titanic on its maiden voyage.

"Quail Bird Cages" hung across Chorrahu restaurant.

Last lunch at"Chorrahu Restaurant".

                 

Entered the platform and was dumbfounded on seeing a mix of  lady and men Ticket inspectors attired in impeccable uniform akin to air-hostesses and pursers on planes.Approached a male ticket inspector who told me to board coach N0 3(Economy class) and walking past the next coach and was at the entrance to Coach N0 3.Standing erect at the entrance door was  welcomed by a young  lady ticket inspector /Hostess who could have had a alternative job as a "Fashion Model' or even a claimant to a  "Beauty pageant contestant". She was taller than me and spoke English also obliging me by posing for a photograph along with the "Gambling Man".You don't meet "GAMBLERS" daily in your line of duty .

By taxi to Samarkand train station.

                                                                                              I had gambled on "Lady Luck" in boarding a long distance train and plane on the same day and was hoping that both the train and plane would cross the finishing lines by a distance and not a nose as per scheduled timings on the itinerary. Entered the plush coach N0 3 and onto seat N0 32.Barring the food and drinks served on any long distance  flight this economy train coach was better and more comfortable than any normal economy air travel.There were two plush cushion seats on either side of the carpeted aisle and my next seat passenger was a young local lady fluent in English language.

Plush Samarkand Train Station Departure section.

                                             I was the only Sub-Continental Asian in the entire coach that was house-full and departure was punctual at 1700 hrs.The train  reached a maximum speed of 230 Kms + while averaging 160 Kms , the fastest train i have traveled in my lifetime.Bizarrely in the same month 4 years ago on Tuesday(8/9/2015)  had travelled on the brand new plushest of  trains "Leo Express" from Prague to Bohumin Station in Poland at a average speed of 160 Km/hr .So although "Afrosiob " was  not my plushest train travel this was definitely my fastest train travel of a lifetime.During travel we were served a snack and coffee .

Samarkand to Tashkent on "Afrosiyob N0 763"

                                                .Arrival time was 1915 hrs at Tashkent Central Station and quickly headed out of the station onto the almost empty road facing the station.Accustomed to crowded railway stations in India was bit nervous at seeing a lack of crowd as well as not a single taxi outside the Tashkent railway station.Travel educates.Walked briskly across the empty car park past a few parked  luxury tourist buses nervous on not sighting a single taxi. Inquired about taxi's  with the first local i came across and he directed me to a corner of the main traffic road where a few taxi's were parked.

Inside "Economy Class" wagon N0 3 of  "Afrosiyob 763".

   On reaching the corner  a taxi driver immediately approached me and i requested him to drive me to destination Tashkent International Airport.Wherever i went in Almaty, Tashkent or Samarkand locals would first ask me if i was Asian and next question was whether Indian or Pakistani.On saying Indian they would immediately recite a few Film actor's names and in the same manner the taxi driver started calling me Raj.Kapoor on being told i was Indian as also singing a song from "Mera Naam Joker". Yes, truth is stranger than fiction.After singing the Hindi song he tried to overcharge me by demanding 50,000 Sum which the Indian travel miser attitude in me reduced to 30,000 Sum.He dropped me at the periphery of the airport car park and it was a long Joker's walk to the Tashkent International airport. Checked into the airport after a security check at the entrance gate and was surprised at the drabness of the waiting lounge of Tashkent International airport.Check-in was to be at 2100 hrs and hence whiled away my time just resting on the couch. Purchased a few chocolates with the saved excess local currency since i couldn't convert the same back to U.S dollars or Euro's.

Samarkand - Tashkent. Countryside views from train.

                                                                                                                                         Central Asia cost of living is cheap if a person cooks at home and this could also be one of the reasons for a exodus of Indian medical students to Central Asia and Russia for medical studies.Only handicap is that Russian language and not English language is the connecting link language in entire Central Asia akin to English language in Commonwealth Country's  and hence if living in a Central Asian Country the proficiency of Russian language is mandatory. Reminded me of my own profession  of "Merchant Navy " officer's who normally preferred studying and passing for promotion examinations in English speaking country's of  U.K, Australia, Singapore and ,New Zealand to name a few of the  prominent country's

Tashkent to Almaty Airport.At Almaty Airport.

                       .I myself studied at "South Tyneside College" in South Shields in England as did a majority of my batch mates.On opening of the "Astana Airway's Counter" collected my boarding pass and after the normal immigration and terrible security check walked into the departure lounge.Departure  of flight " KC-130" was punctual at 2320 hrs and during the short flight was served snacks .On arrival in Almaty early in the morning at 0200 hrs could feel the autumn cold of the city and thankfully my leather jacket provided some protection against the cold.It was a long wait in Almaty airport where i came across a young Afghan traveller who explained me the negative image of his Country also admitting the same .

View of Trans Illi Alatau  mountain from plane

                                                                       He was of mixed parentage with one of his parents being from Afghanistan and  was fluent in many languages including English and  at present employed in Turkey, a sort of free-lancing entrepreneur .Met a Indian doctor student who explained me about the medical colleges in Central Asian Country's. Later  after another terrible security check boarded "KC-907" at 0645 hrs and departure was at approximately 0720 hrs.Surprisingly the plane was only half full and seems most of the medical students were back in medical school in Almaty.The two seats next to me were vacant and it was a sleepless but comfortable flight with a lavish breakfast . Watched one of my favourite movies "Dr Zhivago" on the in-flight video and surprisingly the movie ended as soon as our flight landed at 1040 hrs  on a rainy  morning on  the  Delhi runway .

View of Delhi from plane while landing.

                                                                                                                                                     After alighting the flight it was a long queue for immigration check and finally past the Duty free lounge where i did my mandatory trade-mark shopping of "Duty-free " liquor before heading  onto the exit .At the exit there was another security check and barring walking around nude i must have had the most scrutinized security checks as did other passengers. "Indira Gandhi International Airport" ,the twelfth busiest airport in the World in 2018 has a arrival lounge that  is  identical to Mumbai's "Chhatrapati Shivaji International" airport, a excellent airport.From the exit inquired about the "Metro Railway" which is a short walk from the main arrivals exit gates. 

"Film "Dr Zhivaga" ended as the plane landed in Delhi.

                                                                                                                                   Purchased the Rs 60 token ticket to New Delhi station and boarded the plush metro train which is definitely among the World's best .On arriving at New Delhi station it was another long walk from the "New Delhi Metro Station" to "New Delhi train station". On reaching the entrance of "New Delhi Train station" inquired about the platform of "12952/Mumbai Rajdhani " and was directed onto platform N0 3 . From plush Samarkand railway station  in Uzbekistan to Platform N0 3 in New Delhi railway station was a long , long distance of travel .I was totally haggard after 24 hrs of no sleep and non-stop travelling . Just sat down on a vacant seat on platform N0 3 wondering how to while away  my time until the train departure at 1625 hrs.

Outside Delhi airport on way  to Delhi train Station.

                                                                                          Got into a conversation with  a young shabbily dressed man seated next to me and realized looks could be deceptive.He was a young entrepreneur from Gujarat dealing in sales of Sarees and had even visited a few Asian Country's for export of the same. Never judge a book by its cover.Travel educates.The train arrived early on the platform and at 1530 hrs made my way into coach B6/ Seat 57 and was thrilled by the comfort of the train's A/C system. Excellent relief from the humid Delhi heat.A large group consisting of 11 Punjabi pilgrims had booked into our Compartment and their luggage occupied almost the entire floor space of my seat. Managed to somehow park my luggage in various places of the small seating space and departure was punctual at 1625 hrs.

 " Rajdhani Express " to Mumbai.

                                                                                                       A excellent rail journey with the A/C  functioning excellently and thanks to my leather jacket felt warm and comfortable.The secret of me not ever thinking of migrating to a "First World Country" during my prime years was because i love India and also because i just can't withstand freezing cold having experienced the same during my sea voyages.Dinner was excellent and had a good night's sleep with the compartment A/C temp increased on public demand as it was not only me who was feeling the extreme chill of the Rajdhani train A/C system. After ages had a good nights normal sleep on a train.Woke up early and was on the phone internet. Tea was served and later a breakfast consisting of Omelette/bread.Reached "Bombay Central Station" punctually at the scheduled time of 0815 hrs and again after exit from the station it was a long walk before i managed to hire a taxi. Was finally at home from the "Silk Travel Tour".


NOTE :- A big thanks to the local acquaintances i encountered during my "SOLO SILK ROUTE TRAVEL ODYSSEY" who guided me on the right path in a foreign country .Also a big thanks to  the "INTERNET" for helping me in researching the historical data of my travelogue.History is one subject that cannot be plagiarized. All opinions expressed are my own personal thoughts .